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YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: F.F.A. Jeff Wenger (some pre-placed gear), 8/06 F.F.A. placing all gear on lead, David Potter, 11/06
Page Views: 5,437
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Aug 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Wally on the send.

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>


Likely the most common 'first 5.12' for many at Trout. (though by no means the easiest tick...) Rattly fingers/liebacking to a cruxy transition into fingers gets you to the rest. From there, stemming and fingerlocks will take you up to the crux stemming sequence. Finish with 40+ feet of steep, juggy, and spectacular 5.10 climbing to the chains. This is one of the few slightly contrived lines at the crag with Gold Rush so close at hand through much of the hard climbing.

It's worth noting that many have awkward experiences the first time they climb to the chains. The chains are very far out to the left of the upper dihedral and if you stem up to the same level as the chains, you might be able to clip them from an ok, but exciting stance in the corner. The sequence their location was intended to force follows a horizontal out to the left arete and up the arete. It is exposed, fantastic, and a much better option.


The crack to the right of Gold Rush


Lots of thin gear up to BD .75. Small and medium stoppers protect the crux moves well if you can figure out how to hang out and place them.

Photos of Alchemy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: starting up
starting up
Rock Climbing Photo: The whole line.  Alchemy cuts right at the horizon...
The whole line. Alchemy cuts right at the horizon...
Rock Climbing Photo: The finish to Alchemy.
The finish to Alchemy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack on the left is Gold Rush. Crack on the right...
BETA PHOTO: Crack on the left is Gold Rush. Crack on the right...
Rock Climbing Photo: Max Tepfer about to flail 'n bail. Photo by Thomas...
Max Tepfer about to flail 'n bail. Photo by Thomas...

Comments on Alchemy Add Comment
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By Alex Shainman
Jun 2, 2013

Best continuous quality for a 12- at Trout (that I've done so far). Med/Sm nuts are solid around the pod and/or lots of yellow Aliens/TCU's or equivalent (4-5) are nice. Cool and airy finish!

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