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Alchemy T 
Cry for Merlin T,S 
Crybaby S 
Excalibur T 
Seventh Sojourn T 
Sword In The Stone (Clarent), The T 
Watchman's Secret T 
Watchman's Secret, Variation  T 

Alchemy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff Nov. '06
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 47
Submitted By: LeeAB on Aug 3, 2008

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Climbing Alchemy sans clipping the bolts.

Description 

Off the top of the crux pitch of Cry for Merlin, head straight up the orange wall starting out a little left up through a roof and some vertical seams to a ledge out right near the arete. Then more seams head up and trend slightly left into the shallow grove. Finish with a giants staircase to the top of the wall.

Protection 

Bolts and gear up to a #1 camalot

APPROACH You an approach this and Cry for Merlin/Crybaby by rappelling in from the top. When you come to where you have to move down and right to get to the normal rappel tree there will be an obvious "top" just in front and to your left. If you step out onto this and look down to the left there is small gully feature. There are 2 pins in the right hand wall of this gully, you should be standing almost directly on top of them. These an be backed up with .75 camalot or 1.5 friend. If you use a long cordalette to equalize and extend them a few feet you an rappel with a single 70m rope to the anchor at the top of the crux pitch of Cry for Merlin (tie a knot in the ends as it reaches with a foot or two to spare)...I'm not sure at this time if a 70m then reaches the anchor at the base of the crux pitch as well, but I don't remember carrying 2 ropes in...so.


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 14, 2010

Did this again today and it might be easier than .11-, might be .10+.
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 7, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This pitch can be led without the bolts, it protects adequately without any of the fixed protection.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Oct 7, 2010

John,

In your photo, it is kinda hard to tell, but it looks like the leader is maybe 10-15 feet out from the last piece of gear. How far was the next piece of pro?
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 7, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

It is hard to tell, but there is actually a piece right at my waist and I got another within a body length.