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Southeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcazar S 
As You Like It S 
Camelot T 
Chapalot S 
Cyberwanker S 
Finishing School S 
Forced Stress S 
Fort Stress S 
Gargoyle S 
No Name 1 S 
No Name 2 S 
Pitched Battle T,S 
Quartz Jester S 
Rupley Route, The T 
Sir Clipalot S 
Sneak Attack S 
Steel Crazy S 
Tres Frijoles S 
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 

Alcazar 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Hathaway, & Peter Noebels (1993)
Season: Afternoon Shade Starting At Approx 3pm
Page Views: 57
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Aug 3, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Classic rope and rock photo.

Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Ascend plates to obtain a high first bolt. Continue on blocky features until they give way at a horizontal band. Follow a vertical seam using deceptive, crystal-like nubs past two bolts. Climb sustained face and edges for the next forty feet. Pull a final lip to reach the chains.

Alcazar is an engaging pitch on solid rock that deserves more traffic. That said other than a few splendid sidepulls, the climbing is a monotonous sea of edges. In my opinion Chapalot is the better route due its wilder and more interesting movement.

Location 

Upon reaching the Fortress, hike down the left (southeast) side until a narrow slot appears. Hike through this passageway. At the far end of the passageway are two sport routes with high first bolts. Alcazar is the left; Chapalot is the right.

Protection 

12 bolts to a chain anchor.

One can belay from either the shaded passageway or use a belay bolt on the detached outcropping 10 feet above the base.


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