||Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Scott Ayers, Mark Hathaway, & Peter Noebels (1993)|
|Season: ||Afternoon Shade Starting At Approx 3pm|
|Page Views: ||62|
|Submitted By: ||Hendrixson on Aug 3, 2014|
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BETA PHOTO: Classic rope and rock photo.
Ascend plates to obtain a high first bolt. Continue on blocky features until they give way at a horizontal band. Follow a vertical seam using deceptive, crystal-like nubs past two bolts. Climb sustained face and edges for the next forty feet. Pull a final lip to reach the chains. Alcazar
is an engaging pitch on solid rock that deserves more traffic. That said other than a few splendid sidepulls, the climbing is a monotonous sea of edges. In my opinion Chapalot
is the better route due its wilder and more interesting movement.
Upon reaching the Fortress, hike down the left (southeast) side until a narrow slot appears. Hike through this passageway. At the far end of the passageway are two sport routes with high first bolts. Alcazar
is the left; Chapalot
is the right.
12 bolts to a chain anchor.
One can belay from either the shaded passageway or use a belay bolt on the detached outcropping 10 feet above the base.