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Southeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcazar S 
As You Like It S 
Camelot T 
Chapalot S 
Cyberwanker S 
Finishing School S 
Forced Stress S 
Fort Stress S 
Gargoyle S 
No Name 1 S 
No Name 2 S 
Pitched Battle T,S 
Quartz Jester S 
Rupley Route, The T 
Sir Clipalot S 
Sneak Attack S 
Steel Crazy S 
Tres Frijoles S 
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 


YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Hathaway, & Peter Noebels (1993)
Season: Afternoon Shade Starting At Approx 3pm
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Aug 3, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Classic rope and rock photo.

Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>


Ascend plates to obtain a high first bolt. Continue on blocky features until they give way at a horizontal band. Follow a vertical seam using deceptive, crystal-like nubs past two bolts. Climb sustained face and edges for the next forty feet. Pull a final lip to reach the chains.

Alcazar is an engaging pitch on solid rock that deserves more traffic. That said other than a few splendid sidepulls, the climbing is a monotonous sea of edges. In my opinion Chapalot is the better route due its wilder and more interesting movement.


Upon reaching the Fortress, hike down the left (southeast) side until a narrow slot appears. Hike through this passageway. At the far end of the passageway are two sport routes with high first bolts. Alcazar is the left; Chapalot is the right.


12 bolts to a chain anchor.

One can belay from either the shaded passageway or use a belay bolt on the detached outcropping 10 feet above the base.

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