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Alcatraz

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Alcatraz Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.64264, -83.68139 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 459
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Oct 31, 2016
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Description 

This secluded north facing wall gets minimal traffic, and the routes show this. Chalk is minimal and spider webs are abundant on many of the routes. However if you're looking to avoid the crowds on a hot day, and don't mind a little adventure sport climbing, bring a brush and try some of these routes.

Currently November 2016, there are 21 established routes, all sport with grades ranging from 5.9+ to 5.12d. There is an open project collecting bail biners that is estimated to be 5.14. There are currently three closed projects as well. Most routes are in the mid 5.11 range.

Gets all day shade.

Getting There 

Approach time is approx. 15 min. The trail drops you off at "Silent Circle", the leftmost route on the wall. The wall consists of about 4 smaller walls with breaks in between.

From the parking lot take to footbridge across the stream and follow the trail paralleling the road to the bowman fork spur. Cross the road and follow the signs for Chaos. Continue straight after the split to "Chaos" on to "Alcatraz". The walls will be evident on your left shortly after passing "Chaos".

Climbing Season

For the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) area.

Weather station 1.9 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Alcatraz

Dope on a Rope 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : ... : Alcatraz
Starting up on a small ledge, pull slightly challenging moves to get to the first bolt, stickclip recommended. From here climb from ledge to ledge with steep challenging climbing between. Another challenging move awaits to clip the anchors or get above them....[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

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