REI Community
The Devil's Slide
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albion T 
Devil's Slide, The T 
Satan's Slip T 

Albion 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: P H Biven, V N Stevenson, C Fishwick, 15th April 1963
Page Views: 26
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Sep 25, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

The corner line on the left side of the slide is another Lundy classic. The main (third) pitch is sustained and can be a little awkward, but is very protectable.

P1. Starting at the very left edge of the tidal ledges at the bottom, take an easy line up the slab until some grassy ledges on the left. Either belay on good nuts but a smaller ledge lower down, or a big ledge but poorer gear (one bomber nut, not much else) about 5m higher.

P2. A short pitch: more easy slab climbing to a belay at the base of the corner proper. There's nowhere particularly comfortable for this one, so pick somewhere you're happy with.

P3. The main pitch up the rightwards-arching corner. The normal approach to this pitch is a good fight with the corner, some jams, some awkward laybacks, and very satisfying! Slab demons will use the corner almost exclusively for protection, preferring confident padding to the awkwardness further left. Belay somewhere just below the headwall, unfortunately out of sight of your second (unless using an intermediate hanging belay towards the top of the corner).

A short scramble up blocks to the left gains the top. Sometimes pitched.

Location 

The left-most route on the slide itself.

Protection 

The corner protects very well with medium-large nuts and medium cams (0.5-1 Camalot)


Comments on Albion Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Russell
Administrator
From: Bristol, UK
Sep 30, 2013

VS 4c. Fair for the grade, but it will feel harder than 4c if you try to climb the slab rather than the corner on pitch 2.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About