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Albion Basin

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Albion Basin Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.57792, -111.6194 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 51,245
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shaun Greene on Jul 29, 2007
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by the green stash wall

  • Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.

    Getting There 

    Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 1.7 miles from here

    66 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',19],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',11],['5.10',35],['5.11',12],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Albion Basin

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Albion Basin:
    Stinky Stash   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Cecret Lake : Stinky Stash Wall
    The Kind   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 99'   Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
    Black Streak   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800'   Devil's Castle
    Cough Your Off   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
    Cardinal Sin   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 65'   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
    Girls on Film   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
    Anti Hero's   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
    Horns Of Satan   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 750'   Devil's Castle
    Shadow of the Blade   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 750'   Devil's Castle
    Evil Eye   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700'   Devil's Castle
    Gothic Miller   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 220'   Devil's Castle
    Gothic Pillar   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750'   Devil's Castle
    Toxic Narcotic   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
    UnGoverenable Force   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
    Tacos Diablos   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 30'   Tacos Diablos Boulder
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Albion Basin

    Featured Route For Albion Basin
    Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful rock formations just right of the last b...

    Black Streak 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Devil's Castle
    Fun, 6-7 pitch alpine "sport" route. The first bolted route on the North Face of Devil's Castle and due to its inclusion in the Ruckman Guide, the most popular. Subsequently, it is also the cleanest and currently the one most free of loose rock. Pitch #1: Face (~9 bolts) climb up the black water streak to a ledge and three bolt anchor. This was earlier protected by the gear friendly horizontals. 5.10a, 130'.Pitch #2: Crux pitch goes through a roof and to the right to another ledge (w...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

    Photos of Albion Basin Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Devil's garden is so nice in July
    The Devil's garden is so nice in July
    Rock Climbing Photo: Endangered Pica
    Endangered Pica
    Rock Climbing Photo: by whiper wall
    by whiper wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: A view of mt superior near sunrise
    A view of mt superior near sunrise
    Rock Climbing Photo: Scenic Shot on Approach
    Scenic Shot on Approach
    Rock Climbing Photo: mike bird & Luke Douglas on cecret stash wall
    mike bird & Luke Douglas on cecret stash wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: whiper wall
    whiper wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: stinky stash wall
    stinky stash wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: green stash wall
    green stash wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down canyon from the cosmic web wall.
    Looking down canyon from the cosmic web wall.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the wildlife commonly encountered in this ...
    Some of the wildlife commonly encountered in this ...

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