REI Community
Albion Basin

Select Area...
Cecret Lake 
Cosmic Web Wall 
Devil's Castle 
Devil's Tongue 
Tacos Diablos Boulder 

Albion Basin Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.57792, -111.6194 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 57,194
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shaun Greene on Jul 29, 2007
Forecast:
Tonight

53°
Friday

65° | 51°
Saturday

65° | 52°
Sunday

64° | 51°
Monday

62° | 50°
Tuesday

66° | 51°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
by the green stash wall

  • Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.

    Getting There 

    Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 1.7 miles from here

    66 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',19],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',11],['5.10',35],['5.11',12],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Albion Basin

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Albion Basin:
    Stinky Stash   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Cecret Lake : Stinky Stash Wall
    Portable Darkness   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   Devil's Castle
    The Kind   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 99'   Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
    Black Streak   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800'   Devil's Castle
    Cough Your Off   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
    Cardinal Sin   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 65'   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
    Girls on Film   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
    Anti Hero's   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
    Horns Of Satan   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 750'   Devil's Castle
    Shadow of the Blade   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 750'   Devil's Castle
    Evil Eye   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700'   Devil's Castle
    Gothic Miller   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 220'   Devil's Castle
    Gothic Pillar   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750'   Devil's Castle
    Toxic Narcotic   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
    UnGoverenable Force   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
    Tacos Diablos   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 30'   Tacos Diablos Boulder
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Albion Basin

    Featured Route For Albion Basin
    Rock Climbing Photo: Shadow of the Blade route location

    Shadow of the Blade 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Devil's Castle
    P1 - Ascend the compact face on good rock to a big ledge. (5.10d)P2 - The next pitch is slightly overhanging for 90' until the angle kicks back. Look for ledges on the right...big holds. (5.10)P3 - Climb a steep slab traversing left to a short overhanging hand crack. Protect this and the crack above with cams. (5.9)P4 - Short easy, scrambling leads to a belay next to a prominent dead tree...loose rubble on ledges. Be careful.P5 - Bolt protected face leads 90' to a belay ledge. (5.7 or 5.8)P6 - D...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

    Photos of Albion Basin Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Devil's garden is so nice in July
    The Devil's garden is so nice in July
    Rock Climbing Photo: Endangered Pica
    Endangered Pica
    Rock Climbing Photo: by whiper wall
    by whiper wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: A view of mt superior near sunrise
    A view of mt superior near sunrise
    Rock Climbing Photo: Scenic Shot on Approach
    Scenic Shot on Approach
    Rock Climbing Photo: mike bird & Luke Douglas on cecret stash wall
    mike bird & Luke Douglas on cecret stash wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: whiper wall
    whiper wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: stinky stash wall
    stinky stash wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: green stash wall
    green stash wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down canyon from the cosmic web wall.
    Looking down canyon from the cosmic web wall.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the wildlife commonly encountered in this ...
    Some of the wildlife commonly encountered in this ...

    Comments on Albion Basin Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About