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Albigna Valley

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Piz Balzet 
Pizzo Balzetto 
Placche del Lago aka Seeplatten 
Punta Albigna 
Torre del Piz dal Päl  

Albigna Valley Rock Climbing 

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Location: 46.3299, 9.6551 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Dan Flynn, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Adam Sabic on Sep 21, 2009
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Albigna Valley offers fun, enjoyable climbing on short to medium length routes in a spectacular alpine setting. The climbing consists of mainly steep slabs on beautifully textured granite offering fantastic friction that is said to resemble the granite domes of Tuolumne Meadows in California. Most of the routes have first rate double bolt belays, at good stances, and because some of the pitches are only partially bolted, a light alpine rack would be a good idea.

The cable car up to the valley offers quick and easy access to the Albigna Hut where many of the climbs are accessed from. Members of alpine clubs having reciprocal rights with the Swiss Alpine-Club get discount rates in huts (we paid about 50 francs). Half board covers accommodation (bedding provided), dinner and breakfast (Beer is extra and expensive!). This means you are only ever carrying climbing gear, lunch, and layering allowing you to travel light and fast. Although climbing crowds are quiet to moderate (weekdays), the hut is on a popular hiking trail so should be booked in advance.

Alternatively, Camping Mulina at Vicosoprano is a mile down the road from the cable-car station at Pranzaira. Expect at least an hour’s hike from the cable car station at Albigna Dam to most of the climbs.

There’s a restaurant offering great pizza and beer on the main road between Camping Mulina and Pranzaira.

Although this is mainly considered as an area for acclimatizing before hitting the nearby Sciora and Piz Badile, this area offers fantastic climbing in its own right.

Two good guides are:
Bregaglia Climbing '09: Albigna (2009) PDF File by Chris Mellor. Available for download in PDF for US $5 from Tradebit:
Schweiz Plaisir Sud by Jurg Von Kanel, published by Edition Filidor in 1998 (French, Italian and German), ISBN – 3-906087-09-3

Getting There 

From Zurich drive south to Chur and then head over the Julier Pass to Silvaplana. From Silvaplana drive south-west over to the Maloja Pass toward Vicosoprano. You will reach the cable car station at Pranzaira just before the turn off to Camping Mulina in Vicosoprano.

Climbing Season

For the Switzerland area.

Weather station 9.7 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Albigna Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Albigna Valley:
La Fiamma    5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, Alpine, 50'   Spazzacaldeira
Via Leni 6b   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700'   Spazzacaldeira
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Albigna Valley

Featured Route For Albigna Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Tommy standing on the summit!

La Fiamma 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Europe : Switzerland : ... : Spazzacaldeira
One of the most famous pitches in Switzerland and the must-climb of the Albigna area. A really exposed but well-bolted line climbs the south face of the 'flame'. One of the best summit shots imaginable! Two tricky moves. Watch for the hidden step at the fourth bolt!...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Albigna Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rifugio Capanna Albigna
Rifugio Capanna Albigna
Rock Climbing Photo: Bernhard Streicher climbing Wassersinfonie (5b**),...
Bernhard Streicher climbing Wassersinfonie (5b**),...
Rock Climbing Photo: Albigna reservoir from Spazzacaldeira
Albigna reservoir from Spazzacaldeira
Rock Climbing Photo: Spazzacaldeira climbing area, just a few minutes w...
BETA PHOTO: Spazzacaldeira climbing area, just a few minutes w...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cécile and Claudio on the slabs above the lake
Cécile and Claudio on the slabs above the lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Claudio on the slabs of Wassersinfonie
Claudio on the slabs of Wassersinfonie
Rock Climbing Photo: Albigna Hut is overshadowed by Punta da l'Albigna.
Albigna Hut is overshadowed by Punta da l'Albigna.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on the Albigna Hut Slabs with Albigna Dam...
Climbers on the Albigna Hut Slabs with Albigna Dam...

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