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John's Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Alberta S 
Amazon T 
Bulges T 
Easter Rising S 
From Aldo to Abbey T,S 
Houston S, The S 
Nose, The S 
Route 66 T 

Alberta 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jul 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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There is a nice nest at the anchor! Please don'...

Description 

I thought "Alberta" was a pretty good sport climb, for Johns Wall at least. Some older guides list this as "The Face" at 5.9+, but a 5.9 climber will get his or her butt kicked.

It's a boulder problem to the first bolt (the landing is sandy still some timid leaders might consider stick-clipping). Just before you reach the 2nd bolt is a really weird and unnerving mantle move. After this, head up to the right on small edges & pockets, with the difficulty easing toward the top.

Location 

Sport climb, center stage of Johns Wall. Just left of the left-facing corner (Route 66).

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor w/ chains.


Photos of Alberta Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The run-out to the last bolt. Could be a little di...
BETA PHOTO: The run-out to the last bolt. Could be a little di...

Comments on Alberta Add Comment
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By skelldify
Jul 26, 2015

Did this one on a hot day, but the start felt way harder than 10+ up to the second bolt. Also it's very unclear if you're supposed to stick to the face or use the arête, whether or not to use the corner(s), and where to start from.

Several of the bolts are spinners and they're little hangers.

All of this conspired to make this route not that inspiring.

Also, it's nowhere near 70 feet tall.
By Ky Dame
From: The West
Apr 25, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I'd agree with skelldify that the beginning of the route definitely seemed stiffer than 5.10+. I didn't find any spinners on my run up, but was a little surprised to find a 15ft run out near the top! Overall, its definitely a bit odd but the bottom sequencing up to the second bolt is worth 2 stars I'd say; had a good bit of fun figuring that out.

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