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Alberta Falls Wall
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Alberta Falls Wall T 

Alberta Falls Wall 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 480'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Madoline Gross, Adam Baxter, 5/17/11
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,409
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Jul 13, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Arriving at P1 belay.

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Description 

P1. Start up short crack on the left, traverse 30 feet right to base of the roof system. A 0.4 BD is nice. 5.8R. Don't combine p1 and p2 due to rope drag!

P2. Pull through roof crack to a ledge belay with a fixed pin. Belay using a #0.3, #0.4, and #0.75 Camalot, 5.11.

P3. Climb a nice, steep splitter to pod and go left. Once on the slab above splitter, head up and right to tree belay, 5.10+.

P4. Head up corner behind tree then head right. Face climb over a short bulge via a left-facing flake, 5.8 R.

P5. Climb up left-facing chinmey/crack to a tree belay, 5.8+.

Top out by scrambling up and left via 4th class ramp.

Descent: scramble back to top of 5th pitch. Rap.

1st anchor tree, 30 meter.
2nd anchor boulder/tree, 32 meters.
3rd anchor tree 60 meter to ground.

Location 

This route climbs the splitters on the center walls left side.

Protection 

Double 0 - 2# Camalots. An extra 0.5 #Camalot is nice!
3# Camalot, 4# Camalot, micro-large wires, 8 runners, extra webbing for descent anchors.
2 60 meter ropes.


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By ABaxter
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 8, 2012

Pitches 2 and 3 are stellar, steep crack climbing. 3+ stars for those pitches alone. The rest of the route is moderate and not of the same quality. With its short pitches and in your face (re: splitter!) cruxes, this route is reminiscent of Eldo with a little granite flavor. The gear is excellent where you want it and the climbing moderate where its not. Overall, a worthy outing. Thanks for finding this, Josh!
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Sep 12, 2016

Walk-off descent option: from the top of the formation, head north a short distance then take the first gully system down. Steep and vegetated but negotiable, staying towards the left side. Short section of 5.4 downclimb just before reaching the ground. Ca. 30-40 min. back to the base.

Pitch 1 R rating is warranted IMO. You can belay off a red Alien, #0.75, #2 Camalots (rock quality is mediocre here).

Pitch 2 felt 5.11c/d; super fun, cortortionist moves to pull over the lip then hard face moves. Well-protected and can be aided if need be.

Pitch 3 start is thin and technical. Small stoppers are useful.
By Matt Combs
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2016

Nice route with a very short approach for RMNP. We had no trouble linking pitches 1 and 2 with some long slings. Pitches 4 and 5 link as well.