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Alberta Falls Wall
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Alberta Falls Wall T 

Alberta Falls Wall 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 480'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Madoline Gross, Adam Baxter, 5/17/11
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,674
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Jul 13, 2012

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Arriving at P1 belay.

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P1. Start up short crack on the left, traverse 30 feet right to base of the roof system. A 0.4 BD is nice. 5.8R. Don't combine p1 and p2 due to rope drag!

P2. Pull through roof crack to a ledge belay with a fixed pin. Belay using a #0.3, #0.4, and #0.75 Camalot, 5.11.

P3. Climb a nice, steep splitter to pod and go left. Once on the slab above splitter, head up and right to tree belay, 5.10+.

P4. Head up corner behind tree then head right. Face climb over a short bulge via a left-facing flake, 5.8 R.

P5. Climb up left-facing chinmey/crack to a tree belay, 5.8+.

Top out by scrambling up and left via 4th class ramp.

Descent: scramble back to top of 5th pitch. Rap.

1st anchor tree, 30 meter.
2nd anchor boulder/tree, 32 meters.
3rd anchor tree 60 meter to ground.


This route climbs the splitters on the center walls left side.


Double 0 - 2# Camalots. An extra 0.5 #Camalot is nice!
3# Camalot, 4# Camalot, micro-large wires, 8 runners, extra webbing for descent anchors.
2 60 meter ropes.

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By ABaxter
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 8, 2012

Pitches 2 and 3 are stellar, steep crack climbing. 3+ stars for those pitches alone. The rest of the route is moderate and not of the same quality. With its short pitches and in your face (re: splitter!) cruxes, this route is reminiscent of Eldo with a little granite flavor. The gear is excellent where you want it and the climbing moderate where its not. Overall, a worthy outing. Thanks for finding this, Josh!
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Sep 12, 2016

Walk-off descent option: from the top of the formation, head north a short distance then take the first gully system down. Steep and vegetated but negotiable, staying towards the left side. Short section of 5.4 downclimb just before reaching the ground. Ca. 30-40 min. back to the base.

Pitch 1 R rating is warranted IMO. You can belay off a red Alien, #0.75, #2 Camalots (rock quality is mediocre here).

Pitch 2 felt 5.11c/d; super fun, cortortionist moves to pull over the lip then hard face moves. Well-protected and can be aided if need be.

Pitch 3 start is thin and technical. Small stoppers are useful.
By Matt Combs
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2016

Nice route with a very short approach for RMNP. We had no trouble linking pitches 1 and 2 with some long slings. Pitches 4 and 5 link as well.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

Route is logically 4 pitches and certainly 380'+/-10', not 480'.
P1: 5.7+, R, dusty, 50' including 20' of traverse. Green and yellow Alien belay. Or better yet, keep climbing.
P2: 5.11+, well-protected, 40'. You wish you warmed up for this, banging your helmet on the roof, "that-would-be-an-OK-jam-in-any-other-body-position" sort of climbing. Belay on a few stoppers and a small cam again. Green or red Alien.

What I can't figure is why someone might not link P1-2. If you don't put early pro in on P1 (isn't going to help you if you fall high anyway), then th rope will go directly up into P2 from the ground with the crux only 40' up. Might as well link them and save the poor belay & do the route in 3 pitches.

P3: 5.10c, protects on small nuts and a cam, 60'. Face climbing through cracks, interesting opposition moves and footwork. Good holds appear when needed. Sloping ledge below might be scary of you tried to link from P2. Belay on a tree with slings.

P4-5-top: 5.8, PG-13 in spots, but secure, 230'. A 70m rope hits the very summit from here. I shipped both fixed belays with weather coming in and just went up top.

Walkoff was < 15 min. Walk South to where it look like you will cliff out. You think you will, but you find a talus walk down on steep but stable terrain. I would not rap unless weather forced me off, given how simple this was.

If you need to rap, then there are fixed belays including next to the belay on P2, which is under 100' from the ground below it and easily rap-able with a single 60m. You do NOT need two ropes for this if you use the various fixed raps.

Oh, and in terms of approach. Follow the trail well past Albert Falls until you are clearly 150m below the cliff and headed left past it. Then cut up and right across talus. Yes, it is 35-45 min.
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Aug 1, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Burly warmup! Tony's write up is spot on. 1.5 stars.

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