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Al Borde de la Discordia T 

Al Borde de la Discordia 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pontoriero, Fiorenza, Manoni
Page Views: 194
Submitted By: claytown on Dec 22, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: slabs require careful footwork


An awesome 5 pitch route on good granite that combines cracks, slabs and blocky roof climbing.

P1) 6a, 55m. Start up a low angle crack then step left past a bolt into a blocky roof section. Exit right past another bolt to a dihedral and finish at a 2 bolt anchor.

P2) 6a+, 40m. Bouldery move to start, then follow 3 or 4 bolts up excellent climbing on a beautiful face. Climb a dihedral to its end, then step left and pass another 3 bolts of slab climbing to a 2 bolt anchor. Excellent!

P3) 6a, 20-30m. Clip a bolt off the belay and do some slab moves then step left. Climb through a blocky roof (I went around left then back right). Get some good finger gear and then climb a bit until you clip a bolt on the slab (you don't want to fall going for that bolt, you can get some marginal tiny gear right before that move). 2 bolt anchor, semi-hanging belay.

P4/5) Two pitches of 5.9 up the faces above to the forested ledge. Anchors are equipped to rap the route.


If you get to the end of pitch 3 or further you can rap with a single 60m rope but it might be advisable to take two ropes just in case you do rap the route before the p3 anchor.

From the P3 anchor rap straight down the shield on 2 bolt anchors with rings.


Double rack from tiny cams to #2 camalot and a #3. Nuts.

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