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YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steiger,Fowler; 1982
Page Views: 1,350
Submitted By: eMurdock on May 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Andy working it.


This route is not really on the Lost Hawk Pinnacle, but is right across on the Rollingstone. If doing the routes on Lost Hawk, this a good way to round out the day. Airgasm starts in a tricky seam/crack to the left (about 20') of the bolted route Stupid Human Tricks. Climb the seam and trend right into a right facing dihedral. Good pro lead through a large roof. I think a 4 Camalot protected the lip encounter (although it may have been a 3). Continue up easier rock and finish at the SHT two bolt anchor/lower off. The roof moves are exceptional and the start adds a little spice. Certainly worth doing if in the mood for an airgasm. Faces south. Should be given stars in the guidebook.


Good selection to 4"

Photos of Airgasm Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Roof crack on "Airgasm"
BETA PHOTO: Roof crack on "Airgasm"

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 11, 2017
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 30, 2006

It will have a star in the next book. I had never done it because it didn't get them in Stieger's book. It is unusual and fun and it deserves at least one.
By Chelsea Cook
Oct 12, 2008

I just need to say that this is one of the greatest route names ever.
By Chris Prewitt
Jan 1, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Thanks for posting this route. I probably wouldn't have gotten on it going off the guidebook. Not like most of the gear routes on the mountain.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 6, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

a cool route. very intimidating to lead. i came away with scratches and scrapes on my upper arms after thrashing around and nearly blowing the flash. this is definitely a unique route.

watch for rope drag after pulling the roof. continue up through the chimney and build an anchor on top. the rock is crappy and the gear sparse after the roof, so be careful.
By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Feb 6, 2009

One of the first routes I did after moving here, tho I certainly didn't get it clean. Great fun, and a bit intimidating.
By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Jun 13, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The description says shitty 2 boult anchor but I saw no such anchor and just built a trad anchor, not saying they are not there but I didnt see them. Sad that the top half was not as amazing as the bottom, I thought the roof itself was amazing and fun.
By eMurdock
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jun 14, 2010

Mike, the description does not say shitty anchor. It says to clip the anchors on Stupid Human Tricks (SHT). They are there.
By David Lammers
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 5, 2013

I recommend building a belay station in the gully to belay up the second. Then climbing to the anchors on SHT and moving the anchor. The rope drag from the gully to the anchors on SHT is insane. It is worth the extra work to belay the second up inline with the route. Fun roof which goes well once you figure out the moves. A #4 BD Cam protects the edge move well.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 12, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

this would probably be a 3-star route (because of its uniqueness) if there was a fixed anchor on the ledgy section just above the roof. as it stands, having done this route i don't expect to do it again since you have to keep climbing for 50 feet over shitty rock with terrible rope drag to set up a gear anchor at the top, belay your partner up, then walk off.

i volunteer my assistance if anyone wants to add an anchor to this climb.
By Adrian Montano
Apr 11, 2017

Can the roof be protected with a 3 or do I need a 4?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 11, 2017

The climb is all of 5 minutes off the road Adrian. Take both!

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