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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Henry Barber, J. Brag, Bob Anderson, Aug. 23, 1973
Page Views: 12,020
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 17, 2007

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Almost there. She's going to be kicking all our bu...


Airation is a perfect straightforward finger crack. The crux is dealing with the pain of the sharp fingerlocks. This is a great example of 5.11a fingers. Footwork is key as there are many small feet on the face.

Pitch 1: 5.11a follow the picture-perfect, finger crack to a tree with a fixed sling and rings. Most people only do the first pitch.

Pitch 2: Follow the lower angled rock to the top.


Start on a tree-covered ledge just left of the original finish for Thin Air (5.6), which is a leaf filled gully. (Be careful stepping over the gap to the base of the climb...If you slip it's a looooong way down.) From the ledge, find the nicest finger crack. Have fun...


Cams from thin fingers to wide fingers and some nuts.

Photos of Airation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Alexa sending
Alexa sending
Rock Climbing Photo: "tom cruising" airation
"tom cruising" airation
Rock Climbing Photo: Airation climbs the thin crack on the left. P1 end...
BETA PHOTO: Airation climbs the thin crack on the left. P1 end...
Rock Climbing Photo: Resting before the crux.
Resting before the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of Airation
BETA PHOTO: Photo of Airation

Comments on Airation Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 16, 2017
By Ladd
Apr 18, 2007

Seriously sharp, protect the bottom with blue and green Aliens.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 6, 2009

ooOOOooo! i wanna get oh this this summer! when will it dry out?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 7, 2009

never can tell Micheal... but its not that bad there are just a few spots that take a while to dry out after rain or in the spring melt...
By CTYankee
May 5, 2009

It is almost a "give-away" for little fingers.
By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Jun 16, 2009

I want to get this one clean this is a beautiful, albeit painful route!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009

Henry, Bob Anderson and John Bragg- 3 days for the ffa !
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Sep 30, 2009

Three days? Really?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 4, 2009

That's what I was told , Jay. Remember it was way dirty AND Henry was prolly removing the gear after every attempt. Gearing this climb, like Heather is much easier with Rocks and small cams too.
By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Contoocook, NH
Jan 18, 2010

Great climb; I just wish it was longer.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Jun 6, 2010

The FA did take 3 days and was Yo Yoed.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Nov 16, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Super fun. The feet are better than you might think, too.
By James Simone
Mar 10, 2013

such a phenomenal line. it's a shame it's so short. good footwork will get you through the crux with forearm pump to spare.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Mar 13, 2014

When Jerry Handren was writing the new guidebook to the area he measured Airation: Thirty-seven feet. (I wrote out the number to make it seem longer). But boy, it sure climbs longer than that! Also, the climb is directly above the top-out on Thin Air. Often when we guided T-Air we would point up Airation and say to our clients, "That's the direct finish. Wanna do it?" Once the color came back to their faces, we'd coil the ropes and walk off.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Mar 13, 2014

Thirty-seven feet? Given that I was finger jamming about every nine inches, and subtract the first five feet, that means I did over 40 jams in that length. That sounds about right. No wonder it seems taller.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 13, 2014

Jimmie Dunn told me that EVERY time he guided Thin Air, he did Airation..that's a lot of times

if the tree came out and you mad to mantle on the ledge,it would be several feet longer
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 6, 2015

Mantling always makes me mad, John. [wink] And you're right, Jay, in 37 feet there are about 143 finger locks. The first pitch really should have a bolted anchor about halfway up (so you can get all those locks back for the rest of it).
By Jerome St-Michel
From: Montreal, QUÉBEC
Apr 16, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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