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Air to Spare 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: TDA, Pete Van Slooten, Alex Altman
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Fall, winter (warm spells), summer (cold spells)
Page Views: 827
Submitted By: bus driver on Sep 28, 2015

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TDA on The awesome pitch one

Description 

Air to Spare is up a talus slope and is south-facing. Sun hits mid-morning most of the year I'd imagine. We climbed on a day that hit 97 in SLC and the route was pleasant and breezy. Not too hot but not much shade. The walk down got hotter and hotter.

P1-bolts up arête. chain anchor

P2- cams across an airy traverse to bolts and cam. Chain anchor.
Optional roof crack (details anyone?)

P3-cams and bolts
Optional dihedral crack (details anyone?)

P4-bolts and cams. Pro belay finger cams under roof.

P5- Cams and bolt in crunchy corner on left. Chain anchor on slab above roof.
Optional roof crack to face crack. (bail hex found in roof. Details anyone?)

Descent: Rappel west from the top of pitch 5, three 100' rappels.

Location 

Approach: Approach as for ice climbs and Ad Astra Per Aspera. Stay on the trail well past the formation and make one long jagged traverse back up below the lower cliffs and then up to the toe of the arête. Lots of other rock to look at this way too. After the steep hill, leave the trail at the only pine tree on the left or uphill side of the trail. Go up talus for one tier then up and left until you catch the end of a mining road. Follow this for a bit then turn right up more talus to steep dirt around the left end of the lower cliffband. Follow big solid talus up through trees and then left over to the toe of the arête and the start of the route. Some cairns are placed where the talus is fairly stable. A unified path will improve this approach. Dogs are allowed but the talus is pretty rough on them. Approach time 30-75 minutes.

Protection 

One full 60m rope, a dozen draws and some slings and one set of cams .5"-2" should do. Low crux then enjoy the voyage.


Photos of Air to Spare Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach
BETA PHOTO: Approach
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta
Beta
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of pitch one with the route above
Nearing the top of pitch one with the route above
Rock Climbing Photo: TDA pitch 1. Nice views.
TDA pitch 1. Nice views.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4
Pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2
Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate Dogg on pitch 1
Nate Dogg on pitch 1

Comments on Air to Spare Add Comment
Show which comments
By bus driver
Sep 28, 2015

Start at the toe of the prominent south facing arête up and left of the ice climb approach and ride it over prows, cracks and airy faces for 5 pitches. One full 60m rope, a dozen draws and some slings and one set of cams .5"-2" should do. Low crux then enjoy the voyage.

Approach as for ice climbs and ad Astra. Stay on the trail well past the formation and make one long jagged traverse back up below the lower cliffs and then up to the toe of the arête. Lots of other rock to look at this way too:
After the steep hill, leave the trail at the only pine tree on the left or uphill side of the trail.
Go up talus for one tier then up and left until you catch the end of a mining road
Follow this for a bit thenturn right up more talus to steep dirt around the left end of the lower cliffband.
Follow big solid talus up through trees and then left over to the toe of the arête and the start of the route.
Some cairns are placed where the talus is fairly stable. A unified path will improve this approach.
Dogs are allowed but the talus is pretty rough on them.
Approach time 30-75 minutes.

P1-bolts up arête. chain anchor

P2 -cams across an airy traverse to bolts and cam. Chain anchor.
Optional roof crack (details anyone?)

P3-cams and bolts
Optional dihedral crack (details anyone?)

P4-bolts and cams. Pro belay finger cams under roof.

P5- Cams and bolt in crunchy corner on left. Chain anchor on slab above roof.
Optional roof crack to face crack. (bail hex found in roof. Details anyone?)

Descent
R1 rap to ledge below pitch 4 anchor 100'
R2 rap straight down over hump to ledge with bolts and old rope (ran out of quick links sorry)
R3 rap down into gulley. Watch end of rope as you hit the ground.
Rock Climbing Photo: Air to Spare follows the Willard arête for 5 pitc...
Air to Spare follows the Willard arête for 5 pitches until it gets crusty


Rock Climbing Photo: Insert quote here
Insert quote here

Rock Climbing Photo: Air to spare bottom three pitches. Rap west 3x100'...
Air to spare bottom three pitches. Rap west 3x100' from the top of pitch 5
By JimG
Sep 28, 2015

Where is this relative to Ad Astra Per Aspera; is it basically the same approach? Would it be easy to do both routes in a day? Is it morning shade, afternoon sun on these routes. Thanks for posting this, looks like something new and fun.
By bus driver
Sep 28, 2015

Unfortunately these are not very close to each other. Air to Spare is up a talus slope left of the trail (south facing) and Ad Astra Per Aspera is up a talus slope on the right (west facing). They do both share the same steep ass hill above the parking lot on the approach trail but that's about it. If you were quick and were a glutton for talus it could be done.

It's south facing and sun hits mid morning most of the year I'd imagine. We climbed on a day that hit 97 in SLC and the route was pleasant and breezy. Not too hot but not much shade. The walk down got hotter and hotter.

On the day of the final push on Ad Astra, there was a team that climbed the roof cracks next to air to spare . It was cool to watch them from our spot and would be cool to do simultaneous ascents with friends on both routes. Air to spare has more easy terrain than Ad Astra. Both are fun routes.
By Jordan Gilbert
From: Logan, UT
Apr 18, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun route, good exposure and cool position. Would probably be cooler if you linked the 3rd and 4th pitches, but that would make communication between climber and belayer pretty tough. The 5th pitch is the exception, being a chossy gully that seems to serve only to make the route a bit longer. Doing the 5th pitch roof crack would make the route more direct and fit in better with the rest of the route, but it looks tough!
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Apr 18, 2016

Agreed. 5th pitch sucks. If I only had the strength for that roof! If not doing the roof, it's best to call it a day and rap from the top of the 4th.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Nov 16, 2016

Did this yesterday and really enjoyed it. Approach took 40 minutes and was straightforward. Here are some of my thoughts on the pitches:

P1 – 40 meters. 9 bolts and 3 pitons. Didn't place any gear. Felt more like 5.8 to me? Short crux over a roof or two, with bolts right in your face at each roof, so they're pretty tame. Crux pitch on the route and the best pitch of the route. Bolted belay at a good ledge.

All pitches after this were in the 5.6–5.7 range.

P2 – You can see the whole of this pitch, including anchors, from the top of pitch 1. 1 bolt at the start of the pitch, slung a horn and placed a cam, and then 4 more bolts to the bolted belay. Ok stance/ledge at the belay. 20 or 25 meters.

P3 – 20 meters. Goes up a steep-ish face above the belay (crux of the pitch). Mostly bolts but placed two pieces. Bolted belay at the top of the pitch.

P4 – 30 meters. 3 bolts and a couple pieces of gear. Belay at the top of this pitch is the only gear belay on the route. It's not right below the roof with the crack and bail hex but on a reddish slab 20 or so feet below it. You'll be able to see the gully left of the roof from the belay. Belay took finger-sized pieces in a horizontal crack. Good stance for the belay.

P5 – 25 meters. One bolt and a few pieces of gear. The worst pitch of the route but still not awful. Worth doing as long as you're up there. I had trouble finding the anchor at the top of this pitch. There is a single bolt with a red hanger on the left side of the gully. Once you clip this, the belay is up 10 feet and right 20 feet. I kept climbing up the gully on super loose terrain above the bolt before realizing my mistake and having to do some unpleasant downclimbing.

Rappel 1 – Rap straight down the slab that the anchors are on. The next anchors are only about 20 feet from where we belayed at the top of pitch 4.

Rappel 2 – Good beta from bus driver about going over the hump. And swing a bit to rappeller's left after that to find the anchors for the last rappel. The anchor you're looking for is made from bright green rope.

Rappel 3 – Straightforward rap into the bottom of the gully just west of the start of the route.

12 draws/slings and a set of cams is spot-on for the gear needed. You don't need nuts.

We saw two mountain goats left of the top of the waterfall. Pretty rare for them to be that low in this part of the Wasatch.
By bus driver
Jul 29, 2017

Tristan downgrading to 5.8. You're an animal.

I need to go climb this thing again fully equipped without a ton of shift to carry along. You are probably right that it's soft.

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