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Air Guitar 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 17 pitches, Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R [details]
FA: Topher Donahue, Jared Ogden
Page Views: 852
Submitted By: MauryB on Aug 16, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Air Guitar original topo.

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Description 

Air Guitar is another great plum picked by Topher and Jared. With an independent start to gain The Diagonal ledge system, freeing a pitch of High and Dry (P9), and eventually joining Air City for the classic Slicer pitch and subsequent finish. Be prepared for some adventurous climbing on 5.11 terrain a little ways out from your gear, lots of 5.12, and a real kick in the pants on the P15 roof, just when you thought it was over. The P13 stemming corner is about as good as it gets!

Originally freed over two days, I believe it has yet to see a one day, free ascent. Parties aiming for a one day ascent should plan for a big day. I recommend starting in the dark and running big links and/or simulclimbing much of the bottom half.

See attached topo. NOTE: one pin from P9 fell out on our ascent, and there is only one pin on P13 which is questionable at best. That said, both can still be led safely.

Location 

Descend the Cruise Gully, and head downstream passing The Cruise, then Hallucinogen on your right. It is the next logical start past the Rectagonal. Look for the P2 "Great Roof for Dads" to locate the start. If you get to The Diagonal, you've gone too far.

Protection 

Doubles to #2, single #3, a few extras in small-fingers, good set of RPs, and your big boy pants!


Comments on Air Guitar Add Comment
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By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
May 15, 2017

The first eight pitches were great climbing!! We finished on The Diagonal. Lots of great climbing all day long….
By MauryB
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2017

Indeed, Jay, the bottom half is great climbing with some exciting 5.11 thrown in for good measure! Our first go we actually skipped those by romping up the Diagonal to sort the harder pitches. Last attempt at the full thing I pulled the rope twice on that damn 12+ roof but still no ticky....

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