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Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
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Ain't No Puppy T 
Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 
Big Dogs Variation T,S 
Deodorant T,S 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
Independent Worm Saloon T 
Rat Crack Direct T 
Revocation T 
Skin Tollbooth, The 
Sweatin' to the Oldies T 
Turd Burglar 
Walking on Paper T 
White Shores T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Ain't No Puppy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: M. Frichette & Partner (?) 1970s (?)
Season: Gets afternoon sunshine
Page Views: 493
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Fun in the chimney. Might be better to go right s...

Description 

The route was pretty good and contained some great climbing, but it also had some flakey rock and insecure moves and lichen. 1 star for now, but might clean up to two.
Approach as for 'Revocation.' From the trail, walk out and left on the ledge, which is flat, but as you go left the ground falls away below... the ledge ends at a pair of corners, 'Revocation' is the cleaner corner on the right, and 'Ain't No Puppy' is the wider line on the right with the remnants of a bush in it. Set a belay of a large stopper and a 1st-knuckle sized cam on the end of the ledge at the corner.

Climb up into the left corner, (5.9-) past some awkward moves- these might get more secyure if the crack becmes cleaner. Continue up to a wide section of crack in a corner (5.8) and into the great jams in the bulge above (5.9).

You will arrive at a bolt and link belay. Rap 95' to the starting ledge, or 115' (70m rope) to the ground.

Location 

Do the same start as for Revocation.

Protection 

No wide gear is needed - there is a thin-hands crack at the back of the wide crack, but do take doubles in hand-sized gear.


Photos of Ain't No Puppy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The first crux.
The first crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Through the first crux, on to the next.  Move up i...
Through the first crux, on to the next. Move up i...
Rock Climbing Photo: SSV - Big Dogs / Ain't No Puppy, 1998.
SSV - Big Dogs / Ain't No Puppy, 1998.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Shoemaker / Ain't No Puppy, 1998.
Jim Shoemaker / Ain't No Puppy, 1998.
Rock Climbing Photo: SSV - Big Dogs / Ain't No Puppy takes the left fac...
SSV - Big Dogs / Ain't No Puppy takes the left fac...

Comments on Ain't No Puppy Add Comment
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By Shadrock
From: Here and there.
Aug 3, 2015

Gear beta: I found a #4 helpful in the OW just below the finish.

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