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A Modest Man from Mandrake S 
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco T 
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Unknown west of Mandrake S,TR 
Unknown west of Take Me to the River T,TR 

Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 2,082
Submitted By: utfreeclimber on Nov 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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The lower finger crack/boulder problem

Description 

Starts with an overhanging boulder problem past two bolts (11d). The fun part (trad) of the route starts off a ledge above the two bolts and climbs an awkward and sequential set of cracks. Gear fits well in the left-hand crack and fingers fits securely in between the chocks that fill up the right-hand crack. Fun climb, super pumpy, well-protected, but kinda dirty.

Location 

Crazy overhanging face to the left of Crosseyed and Painless at the west end of the crag

Protection 

Two draws and a standard rack


Comments on Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco Add Comment
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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Sep 19, 2011

A classic hard 5.11 mixed route. There are now 3 bolts protecting the bottom face/crack section(thanks!) making this not so scary. Heading out left onto the super slippery arete holds after bolt 2 make this 5.11d while only using the face and finger cranks is 12b according to Ruckman. A magical jug appears at bolt 3 to gain the fat ledge then it is fun trad climbing to the top. The crack is a bit dirty but still quite enjoyable with good gear in the .5 to #2 camalot range. Clip "cross eyed" anchors and enjoy a TR for that route.
By dnaiscool
Apr 20, 2015

I thought this was really hard, and really hard immediately, because the rock is steeper than you think and the rock is water-polished slick. The original .11d rating was, I thought at the time, a bit of a sandbag. But, then again, we were looking at only two bolts, so fiddling in gear was pumper. Compared with other .11d's like Division, Moonwalk or Fishlips, this route, IMO, is harder...just sayin'...
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
May 21, 2015

how far onto the arete' do you have to go to make this 11d?? felt more like a solid 5.12 boulder problem to an 11+ crack. Broken holds?
By Buddy Lindsey
Jun 27, 2017

I cast my voice with the rest--the face is certainly harder than 11c. I had to use the left arete. Hadn't realized the rest was either trad climbing (which I don't have gear for) or the bolted 13a. So I came down. =(

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