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Aiguille du Tour

Aiguille du Tour Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 11,614'
Location: 45.9947, 7.0106 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 46
Administrators: Euan Cameron, Luc-514, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kenr on Jul 15, 2017
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Description 

Popular climbing peak on the France / Switzerland border, with two summits about the same height, surrounded by glaciers.

A popular route is the SW ridge (Arete de la Table) of the SE summit - [see this route description on c2c CampToCamp].

The "normal" route is the NW ridge of the SE summit. The pass (between the two peaks) at the base of ridge is reached from its northeast side -- if starting from France (the Refuge Albert Premier hut) after going out around the S and E sides and through Switzerland from the Col Superieure du Tour (N45.9883 E7.0116) -- difficulty French alpine rating Facile (easy) - [see this French-language description on c2c CampToCamp].

ski approach: A fun version for skilled + fast ski mountaineers is to ride the lifts up from Argentiere village to the Grands Montets lift top station, next ski down to and across the Argentiere glacier. Then up (crampons often useful) over Col du Passon to reach the south rim of the giant tour glacier. Next NE across and up to the Col Superieur du Tour and into Switzerland. North a ways past a some dramatic rock peaks and deposit skis below the little pass (N45.9947 E7.0108) between the two Aiguille du Tour summits. Crampons often useful to get up the snow to the little pass, then turn left and up (snow-covered?) rock to the SE summit. Return down to skis, then ski N over Col du Pissoir, next turn left high traverse to left E side of Col du Midi des Grands (N45.9987 E7.0081), down-climb rock+snow on its E side.
. . (Instead of crossing Col du Midi, it is possible to ski NE down toward the village of Trient in Switzerland, but this requires more planning or longer wait for transportation back to France).
Next ski way W across much of the giant Tour glacier, then NW (with some careful navigation to avoid cliffs and/or find continuous snow) down to village of Le Tour. Shuttle bus back to base station of Grands Montets lifts (or to other Chamonix valley sleeping base).

. . another ski mountaineering approach is to ride up the lifts above NE from the village of Le Tour, then up over Col des Autannes, then E + S to Col du Pissoir - [see this French-language route description on c2c CampToCamp]

crevasse hazard: While most of the climbing routes are on rock, the approaches all cross crevassed glaciers, so come with appropriate planning and navigation skill and experience, and bring appropriate equipment for prevention and rescue of crevasse falls which you have practiced using in some realistic situations.

bergschrund / moat / rimaye: Making the transition from snow/ice approach to the bottom of the rock route might require some "creative engineering" with appropriate equipment and skills, to cross gaps and meltwater-ice patches. If leaving clothing or boots or equipment at the bottom of the rock, might help to bring some storage aids and creative skills so it doesn't fall into a gap, or slide way down the snow after a few hours of sunshine.

Getting There 

Usually approached from the Refuge Albert Premier hut (abbreviated "Albert 1er") - (GPS latitude longitude approx N45.9968 E6.9867) in France, which is reached by a trail up from the village of Le Tour (N46.0031 E6.9463). The village can often be reached by scheduled shuttle bus ("navette") from the town of Chamonix and other villages in the Chamonix valley.

Could also be reached from the Cabane Trient hut in Switzerland.

During ski season through early May, often approached by ski mountaineers from the Grands Montets lift top station over Col du Passon.

Climbing Season

For the Chamonix Mont Blanc area.

Weather station 12.1 miles from here


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