|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Ramon Ramirez and Club Celo Rey, 1964|
|Submitted By:||Jimmy McAllan on Jan 30, 2007|
|Comments on Aguja Celo Rey||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Matt Richardson
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 21, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|This route totally rocks! The top of the spire is incredible, as I recall, only about 2 people can fit (maybe only one). If the wind is up, then communication with your second sucks at the first belay. Bring some longer runners to avoid rope drag. Also, note that this route is 8 bolts for the 110 ft - as I recall, the bolt spacing is not even, and I would suggest a smaller cam for the first pitch before the crux (somebody else might have some better beta for this).|
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 2, 2008
|For pitch one, you might feel compelled to try the crack where the saddle between the spires forms, but stay on holds to the right and you'll have less trouble. Some of the old, hand-made pins remain from the Mexican first ascentionists.|
By Michael G
Jan 7, 2009
|I brought a set of stoppers for pitch one and placed two of them. Also, I found the crux to be the dark pod/offwidth directly behind "Nick" in the photo above. I cut out onto the face once the offwidth tapered off (maybe 4/5 feet above bolt?). I also clipped some bolts off the arete of the "looking glass" hole beneath the saddle before heading back onto the face. Seemed to be the logical line, and couldn't figure what other route those bolts could have been for. Great route, both pitches are stellar!|
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 10, 2012
|Super Fun route to access the top of the Small Spire! The First pitch is slightly run out between higher bolts but if you bring a longer sling there is a thread through you can do to reduce it, regardless the climbing is over easy terrain. Second Pitch is unreal!! First time I climbed a spire and it was everything I imagined and more!! Go to the Summit proper for some exciting exposure, but watch out for the cactus!!!|
By Sherie Lou
From: Washington, DC
Feb 6, 2016
|1st pitch is harder than 5.9?...and run out. Definitely climb right at the crux and don't find yourself stuck inside the first/small needle's eye. To start, the moves up the ramp to 1st bolt are easy, but leave leader unprotected. If you use the bolt under the ramp, you'll have a total of 9 bolts.|
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 4, 2016
P1 somewhat awkward getting established between bolts 1 & 2 not particularly run out with option to sling a constriction up high (bring runner), see other contributor notes - they are helpful. P1 gets a single star for climbing but adds a star for the cool peek-a-boo slot then the eye which is neat. The belay is deluxe with great views, large area and bomber anchor. Consider cocktails.
P2 - hey we lucked out... 1pm beginning of March means the sun is high and already rotated to the west... shade was ours! The rock is very good, moves fun and you likely will be compelled to veer over the south side to check the exposure. The pitch climbs well but is micro in height, the top is nifty and worth bringing your partner up for the obligatory summit selfie. You also have a neat view of the dihedrals and other formations. Big enough for party of two.... beyond that... you're better off to just TR/slingshot from the notch.
Descent - unless you're going down the south side with two ropes you'll cross over the notch to the east spire. There you'll find a pretty dirty stance (beware of loose rocks) and another anchor. Snake or saddle your ropes if windy and you'll be down to the north-side base with a single 70m.
Two stars.. worth doing for the view, vintage hardware and the climbing of P2.