Explore this area in 3D
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Previous Next
Elevation: 11,249 ft
GPS: 45.89917, 6.91296
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,891 total · 73/month
Shared By: Jan Rous on Jul 12, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Luc-514, David Riley, Bogdan Petre
Page Updates (admin only)

Description Suggest change

The red rock pillar on the northeastern-most protrusion of the Aiguille du Blatiere. Mostly solid rock, with minimal glacier approach (no crevasse gear needed). There are a ton of climbs here. Damilano lists 14 or so. All are in the range of 5-8 pitches, follow solid rock, and most are frequented. Don't be mislead by MPs currently sparse listing.

Getting There Suggest change

Take Aguille du Midi cable car to the middle station - Plan de l'Aiguille (2,317m). Take trail on the left hand side towards Aiguille de Blatiere. There are many trails that cross the moraines on the way, most of them lead to where you want to go. Access the lateral moraine on the Blatiere glacier and follow that to a snowfield east (climbers left) of the ridge coming down from the red pillar. Ascend the snowfield (crampons/tool useful) to reach a break in the rock. Walk back down the ridge to the right, cross the notch, then walk left towards the red pillar on 3rd class terrain.

To descend stop at anchors on the main face shown in the pictures below. Several rappels up to 40m in length will return you to the ascent trail. See the description for Nabot Leon for more details.

To get back down to the snowfield there is a double-rope rap from the higher ground near the red pillar, but there is a significant amount of loose rock (may be better in snowier conditions) so be careful if you choose to use it. [Not recommended]

3 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Red Pillar of the Blatiere Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Red Pillar of the Blatiere

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
● Nabot Leon
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
● Majorette Thatcher
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Nabot Leon
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
● Majorette Thatcher
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Red Pillar of the Blatiere »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Sun Angles Details:
Sun Details Unknown. Know About It?

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
 Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Add New Photo Drop down
Photos

The summit of the Red Pillar, with descent anchors visible on the left. Posted with permission from bogdan p. [BP Edit: Probably Echec et Marx, possibly L'eau rance d'Arabie?]
The summit of the Red Pillar, with descent anch…
 0
Taken from the high-point two bolt belay, above the summit of the Red Pillar. Rappel here (back left) to link with Osez Joséphine. Rappel lookers right to a rubble strewn ledge and scramble back to notch to reverse. <br> <br> Posted with permission from bogdan
Taken from the high-point two bolt belay, above…
 0
A View of Aiguille de Blatiere
A View of Aiguille de Blatiere
 0
Julian Resch on L'eau Rance d'Arabie - Blatiere Red Pillar Aug.2019
Julian Resch on L'eau Rance d'Arabie - Blatiere…
 0

0 Comments