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(q) Agony Arch Area
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Agony Arch 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Robbins, 1970's
Season: All year
Page Views: 5,404
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Brad Singer midway up Agony Arch (5.11b), Riversid...

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>


One of the finest crack lines at the Riverside Quarry, this is located on the slightly overhung face around and left from Hump or Dump.

Climb the vertical thin/hand crack as it arches up and left and gets slowly wider and steeper, the crux towards the end as you either jam wide fists near the lip or struggle to get smaller, better jams deeper inside the crack which flares; handrailing the lip is another option if you have the juice.

A local classic that would see much more traffic if in another locale.


Gear to 4", chain anchors

Photos of Agony Arch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Agony Arch
Agony Arch
Rock Climbing Photo: Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan on Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
Ryan on Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
BETA PHOTO: Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry

Comments on Agony Arch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Dunbar
From: Charlotte, NC
Dec 10, 2010

Is it possible to access the anchor from above to set up a toprope on this climb?
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Feb 15, 2011

Not really... there are 3 bolts above the vertical section of the crack that you might be able to set something up to work that part & maybe some of the arch.
By Mike Fogarty
From: La Quinta, CA
Mar 8, 2012

This route is very easy to set up for top rope, bolted and safe to do laps on, just don't fall near the start.
By The Ruin-er
From: CA
Jul 21, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Ground up is the way to go
By The Ruin-er
From: CA
Jul 21, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

if youre going TR it place some directionals
By Roger Suen
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 7, 2013

There is a lot of bird shit at the base. Like a Chuckie Cheese ball pit of bird shit. Also lots of it in the crack that will prob fall out on to you and possibly smear on your hands as you fist the last section of the climb.

Bring hand sanitizer
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 14, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Could also be called Aviary Anal Arch. So much bird crap everywhere. It was pretty gross... Had to crimp down on a mound of it up in the upper off width section. The lower/vertical section is amazing and definitely 4 stars. I took (and placed gear) in the following order: red alien, 0.75 C4, grey alien, #1 C4, #2 C4, 3.5 camalot, #4 C4, #3 C4, #2 C4, draws for the anchor. The first go on this route I only took one #2 and was really wanting the second #2. It really makes a difference! The 3.5 camalot fit perfectly in the first wide section. Much more solid than either the #3 or #4 C4. This arch is amazing and would be super classic in another more traveled trad area. The bird crap is a huge downer. I would not recommend climbing this in warmer temperatures when the bird crap starts to get mushy. There are probably 150 birds living in this crack.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Aug 6, 2013

soooo good! I worked this route with my friend Ben. First attempt I lead up to the offwidth section and got to tired to finished. We tagged team the route and he finished the rest of the route. Next day he lead it all the way and I TRed it with one fall at the 2nd wide section. We used a #5 on this route but 2 #4 C4 would be good at the offwidth where it starts slanting left.
By alex ostrovsky
Mar 20, 2017

Would anyone have any objections to me adding another bolt to this anchor? it seems pretty sketch to me as for as anchors go..
Rock Climbing Photo: anchor bolts
anchor bolts
By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 20, 2017

Alex - Add a bolt or better yet replace the whole anchor, thanks. Let me know if you need any help or hardware for the project.

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