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Aging Salesman T 
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Aging Salesman 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Sam Lightner, Zach Smith
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, summer, or Fall
Page Views: 1,362
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Mar 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Standing at the top anchor looking down, this is w...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This route ascends roughly the middle of the southeast face of Bridger Jack Butte.
P1 Start slightly righ of a good corner... climb the corner clipping two bolts in the crux then stepping right to a good ledge with fixed station. 10+, 120 ft
P2 Climb up and right on steep hands and edges to a dirty chimney (short). You have an option of going left or right out the roof... Right is much harder, but has a bolt. Left has a funky move then a hand crack that leads to a sloping ledge and fixed anchor.
5.11+, 130 ft
P3 Climb up and left clipping a bolt for a wild stemming crux... a big nut is good for your first piece above the bolt. After that, follow obvious hands and big-hands crack to the cap layer. Step right to another fixed anchor. 5.11, 120 ft
P4 Climb up and then left on the scree and slabs of the summit cap. Occasional easy boulder problem... Might be easier to break it inot two considering drag. Wandering 70 feet of 4th class and boulder problems.

This route would be quite good except the middle section of the second pitch, in my opinion, is less than stellar. The thrid pitch is good INdian Creek climbing.

The route is probably the best rappel route off the Butte... No, it is the best. It is pretty muchb straight up and down on 1/2 inch bolts. No, dont' do it with one 70 meter rope.


Middle of the butte.


From biggest to smallest, take (friends) 1 #5, 1#4, 4 #3.5, 3 #3, and 2 of each below that. Bring a couple of slings and draws. You need two 60's to get down.

Photos of Aging Salesman Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch of A. S.
1st pitch of A. S.
Rock Climbing Photo: Aging Salesman Topo
Aging Salesman Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Zack sending the routes crux!
Zack sending the routes crux!
Rock Climbing Photo: Zack Smith on 2nd pitch roof crux.
Zack Smith on 2nd pitch roof crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Gross Belaying the 3rd pitch.
Josh Gross Belaying the 3rd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh sending the third pitch. This is the pick of ...
Josh sending the third pitch. This is the pick of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aging Salesman
BETA PHOTO: Aging Salesman

Comments on Aging Salesman Add Comment
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By Dougald MacDonald
Mar 7, 2008

This is basically the FFA of an old route, Still Alive at 35, which Dave Goldstein and I climbed in 1995 at 5.11 C2. We climbed a different first pitch, to the right of this line, at 5.10 or so, and we took a different line through the roof on the second pitch, but the rest of the route is the same. We did a couple of aid moves over the right side of the roof, and we aided the beginning of the third pitch (the blank stemming corner) with a lucky toss of a Tri-Cam into the bottom of the crack. Otherwise we free-climbed.

Anyway, it's great to see the route get a free ascent. Maybe that second pitch would clean up with some traffic?
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Mar 7, 2008

It was hard to believe someone hadn't been there before... now we know you were. I also did not get the free ascent. Josh and I got on this thing last year after he and Zach had begun working it and abandoned it like 5 years ago. Josh and I got to the summit, but I fell in t he stemming corner and he fell going out the right side of the roof. Those guys went back last week and finished it up cleanly.

The name stems from Josh. Zach came up with it. Josh is continuously sellinig us on his routes, and we are continually qustioning their quality... but he must be a good salesman cus despite those quality issues that seem to come up regulalry (the guy likes getting sandy), we keep coming back. As per the word "Aging", I'm not sure if its cus Josh is now well into his 30's (still a baby from my view), or if its cus the sales pitches are getting old... he no longer says "its good", but instead uses words like "unique" and "energizing".

BTW, I think Josh gives this 8 stars... I'd stick with one. The first pitch is ok and the 3rd pitch is good. The breakup in the middle is icky-poo-poo.
By Josh Gross
Mar 7, 2008

Dougald cool, sounds like you guys climbed to the right of pitch 1 and 2 of our route. Our pitch 1 was 5.9 A2 and now is 5.10+. With some traffic pitch 2 should clean up. The right side of the roof on pitch 2, the way Sam and I originally went, has a bolt and probably is 5.12. On our descent, we realized we would be able to free climb the left side of the roof easier. The left side is Aging Salesman's crux. Your route and our route share pitch 3, which has a cool 5.11 stem crux.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Apr 2, 2008

After coming back to this route following an ascent of Wildflower, I have added a star. Its a two star route. However, if you compare it to Powders or Wildflower, its a four star route. My stars are compared to other routes NOT on Bridger Jack Butte. This is probably the second best route on the Butte... which tells you something about this rock.

The only people who rappel Wildflower now should be King of Pain ascenders and bailers. This is definately the best rap route. The chains are just below the summit.
By khoa
From: Tacomarado
Apr 13, 2016

Rappels easily with an 80m rope.
Anchors are easily seen below the actual summit 'tier'. Stay left on the first rap
By Mei
May 7, 2017

This comment is solely about rappelling Aging Salesman. Beefy anchors top to bottom.

Rappel #1 : Single 70m rope rappel. Looking down from the top anchor, there are two notches. Take the right one (facing out).
Rock Climbing Photo: Standing at the top anchor looking down, this is w...
Standing at the top anchor looking down, this is what the notch looks like that you should rappel down.

Rappel #2: Single 70m rope rappel.

Rappel #3: Single 70m rope will NOT get you down on the big platform. We had a 2nd rope with us. Cannot comment on down climb.

Rappel #4: Single 70m rope rappel down to ground.

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