REI Community
Panther Gorge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agharta T 
ByTooth and Claw T 
Chimaera T 
Fly By T 
Needle in a Haystack T 
Orson's Tower T 
Pi Day 
Sorry, Kevin T 

Agharta 

WI4-

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 600'
Original: WI4- [details]
FA: Christian Fracchia, Charlie Dickens - 1999
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: Matt D on Mar 3, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Agharta on November 21, 2015 (Photo by Kevin Mudra...

Description 

There are two variations, left and right of the buttress shown in the photo. I believe the RHS is the original route, and more reliable. We climbed the LHS in 2016, though the description below is sufficient for either side.

P1 30m NEI 1/2 Climb easy slabs/slopes to the base of the steep ice. This section can be bypassed on the right if the ice is too thin or non-existent.

P2 55m NEI 3 Climb rambling steps of ice to mellower terrain above where rock outcroppings may offer shelter and a belay on rock gear.

P3 55m NEI 3/4 Climb easy slopes for 20m, then break through a vertical step amongst cool looking caves.

P4 35m NEI 3- climb rambling steps to the trees above.

Descent: rappel off scrubs, V-threads and/or rock outcroppings. Alternatively, some parties bushwack upwards to the Marcy trail.

Location 

Hike to the Marcy/Haystack col from the Garden parking lot, passing John's Brook Lodge and Slant Rock (4 hours).
After bushwacking 20 minutes into Panther Gorge from the Haystack/Marcy col and reaching Panther den, follow the rock faces south past the Feline wall to the big obvious face of Agharta.

From the base of the climb, only the first 3 pitches are visible.

Base of Route: GPS: 44.113066 north, -73.908183 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 587369 4885010

Protection 

When the ice is good (as it was in 2016), a standard rack of ice screws is sufficient. Other years people report thin/scary ice, necessitating stubbies and rock gear.

Cord for V-threads.


Photos of Agharta Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo from Feb 27, 2016 showing the left and right...
BETA PHOTO: Photo from Feb 27, 2016 showing the left and right...

Comments on Agharta Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About