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Grandeur Buttress Side
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Agent Orange T,TR 
Corner Flash T,TR 
Delusions of Grandeur T 

Agent Orange 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 964
Submitted By: jdberndt on Sep 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Nicola Masciandaro on Agent Orange (11+).

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climbs through a series of horizontal cracks on vertical to slabby terrain. Nice balancey climb with a variety of small features: mono, undercling, sloper and crimps. Probably tricky to protect on lead. May be missing fixed pin.

Location 

Look for series of horizontal cracks left of the slabby arete on Grandeur buttress across from Toxic Shock. I climbed Corner Flash and set a toprope with gear.

Protection 

gear to .5 with microcams/ballnuts?


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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 25, 2013

Very fun, thoughtful face climbing.
By Jtetzlaff
Oct 4, 2014

There are new anchors 10ft below the old AO anchors.
By Chris Kalman
Dec 29, 2014

The new anchors are solid bombproof stainless steel bolts, and the new location avoids unimpressive dirty climbing at the top. This is definitely not an R rated route, but definitely requires heads up climbing. Unless you are super solid at the grade, it might not be a bad idea to suss out the gear (especially for the first 20 feet) on TR after climbing Corner Flash.
By Craig Gorder
From: Loa, UT
Jul 6, 2015

This is such a fun and unique climb. It's a shame that the (undeserved) "X/R" reputation scares people off. I think anyone with the requisite trad climbing experience to climb at the grade would have no real issue making it safe. It does have a touch of spice, but I'd have a hard time giving it any kind of "danger" grade.

That said, it did make me feel a bit more comfortable anchoring in the belayer for the first two pieces, just to stop any kind of summersault potential down that hill.

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