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Agent Orange 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brad White & Ian Cruickshank June, 1993
Page Views: 2,167
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Feb 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Agent Orange is a test of both slab wizardry and jamming prowess.

Start up a flake/block and climb to a comfortable stance below the black slab. Delicately move up the face trending right past 3 bolts and the first crux, then veer left, climbing past another bolt and the second crux. Rest, then tackle the pumpy, right-angling, gear-protected corner to a double bolt anchor.

Note: This route gets a lot of mid- to late morning sun.


About midway down the cliff from the left at a large right-facing corner with a block/flake at its base. About 200 feet to the left of the Vultures Wall.


10 draws, and singles from .5 to a #2 Camalot. A single 60m rope gets you down.

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By bayard russell jr
From: Madison, NH
May 4, 2011

New chain anchors here, no more ratty ol' tat.
By burlap submariner
Oct 27, 2011

it should be noted that it is wise to stick clip the second bolt, if you botched the clip you would hit the block just off the ground. the slab crux is very tricky and barely there, the upper crux more of a V2+ boulder problem with a pumpy corner to finish. excellent route.
By JChepes
From: West Ossipee, NH
Sep 10, 2012

Also note that cold shut before trad section is spinning and the weld did not look good.
By wonderwoman
Jul 15, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

You can protect the move below the second bolt with an orange metolius or yellow mastercam. There is a crack that fits either / both of these perfectly. I fell going for the bolt and appreciated having a piece there to keep me from going splat on the ledge. I still need to finish this climb, though.
By Derek Doucet
Aug 4, 2015

This is a great pitch, however the cold shut on the bolt protecting the upper boulder problem is total junk. The weld is entirely broken through. It's possible to back it up with some so-so gear (small cams IIRC) a bit down and right of the shut. While this wouldn't keep you from bouncing the slab if the cold shut blew, it just might stop a pretty big and ugly tumble. The steep hanging corner at the top is a blast.
By Lisa Boldini
Aug 24, 2015

Did this yesterday and thought it was a great route! The horizontal crack between bolts 1 and 2 takes a bomber alien to keep you off the ledge. I thought the face/slab climbing was the hardest part, then a fun boulder problem and crack/layback to the top. The "bolt" protecting the boulder problem is scary, but I got two so-so cams in to back it up. Just watch out for the spider dens on the top section.. so many spiders.

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