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Agent Orange 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Artz, Eddie Begoon, Kris Kline, 1983
Page Views: 4,048
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on May 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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preparing for battle

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Start below an overhanging orange pillar. Climb up to the pillar and follow a crack to its right (#3.5, #3 Camalot just below the pillar, orange TCU fits the crack on top of the pillar). From the top of the pillar (semi-rest) continue through the overhanging section. The crux move is pulling a sequence of flaring finger jams to finally some good holds at the top. Unless the conditions are dry (spring or fall) the crux jams are slimy and close to impossible.


From the Tree Route follow the trail towards the South Bridge Wall. The trail initially goes down but soon starts up and arrives at the cliff near a distinct corner with Your Mother. Just around this corner is an alcove/pit with an overhanging orange face to the right. That's the climb.


Mid to small cams, TCU's. The crux can be protected with a bomber nut placement at the small overhang to the right (#9, #10 Metolius and similar). The crack next to the pillar is very slick so zip it up. I once fell before placing the bomber nut, pulled the TCU, and ended up close to a ground fall. Bolted anchor.

Photos of Agent Orange Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Third times a charm.
Third times a charm.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux of Agent Orange. Circa '98.
At the crux of Agent Orange. Circa '98.

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By David Aguasca!
From: New York
May 27, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Stellar route with a great variety of movement. Definitely bring nuts; I didn't and regretted it, as there are a couple of key placements. There are a couple of good handjam rests to place from, so you'll be able to find something with a single rack of cams from tips to #3 camalot.

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