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Agent Orange (with direct start) T 
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Agent Orange (with direct start) 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A1

Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A1 [details]
FA: Ray Ringle and Herb North, Jr.
Page Views: 891
Submitted By: Geir on Jul 27, 2012

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Petzl self-drive bolt with Leeper hanger - found a...


Wonderful features, fun climbing, and a pitch great exposure characterize this old route with a new start.

Agent Orange has typically been accessed by first climbing Cheap Thrills (10-), which has a grungy slot for its first pitch that is now occupied by a tree (see beta photo).

Recently Dave Merin, Aleix Serrat-Capdevila, and I established a direct start that heads straight over a large roof to gain the terrific shallow corner on which Agent Orange starts. The description below includes this start.

Pitch 1 (75'): Start just right of Naranja. Boulder up under a small roof, place some gear and pull around it on the right side. Work up to a stance above the roof, protect in a horizontal pocket, and gain the finger crack up and to the right. Climb this to two bolts under a large roof. Aid through the roof (A1) and continue up a stellar shallow corner with a finger crack (11-). Hanging belay at the top of the finger crack.

Pitch 2 (60'): Work up and right into a hand and fist crack (11-). Make some strenuous moves until about 10' below a roof. Traverse directly left (fun 5.10) and enter a V-shaped notch to belay. Pitch 1 & 2 could be combined with some careful use of runners.

Pitch 3 (130'): From the notch move up about 10', place some gear, then make a committing move left on to a face with good holds. From here head straight up the left side of the arete to a bolt. Move to the arete and continue to a ledge with a tree. Continue up the arete another 15' to a second ledge. From here, follow the ramp left 30' and work up to the bolted anchor for Jimmy Dean. A thrilling, exposed, and challenging pitch.

Descent: Two 115' rappels down Jimmy Dean


Starts just right of Naranja. See overview photo and Squeezing the Lemmon.


Stoppers, doubles to blue Camalot. One #4 Camalot.

Photos of Agent Orange (with direct start) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at pitch 3 (about halfway up)
Looking up at pitch 3 (about halfway up)
Rock Climbing Photo: Aleix on pitch 3
Aleix on pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at pitch 2
Looking down at pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Aleix on the direct start
Aleix on the direct start
Rock Climbing Photo: Agent Orange Direct to Agent Orange.  First two pi...
Agent Orange Direct to Agent Orange. First two pi...

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