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Royal Arches
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1096 T 
Age of Industry S 
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Arete Butler T 
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Demimonde S 
Double Trouble T 
Endorphine S 
Face Card T 
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Maxine's Wall T 
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Move Like a Stud T 
Peruvian Flake T 
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Royal Arches T 
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 
Royal Flush T 
Royal Perogative T 
Rupto Pac T,S 
Serenity Crack T 
Shaky Flakes T 
Sons of Yesterday T 
Super Slide T 
Surf Nazi T 
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 
Texas Chainsaw Massacre T 
Trial By Fire T 
Unnamed 5.3 T 
Unnamed Chimney T 
Violent Bear It Away, The T 
Y Crack T 

Age of Industry 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Norman Boles, George Watson and John Tuttle, 1986
Season: year
Page Views: 1,666
Submitted By: Daniel S on May 16, 2007

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


A well protected face friction climb on a rounded arete. Crux is after the third bolt.


The route is the first bolted line immediately left of the 5.6 chimney start of Royal Arches.


5 to 6 quick draws for the modern bolts protecting the route, and slings for the three bolt anchor (of which two of the bolts are old quarter inch bolts).

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By Kaleem Khwaja
From: Emeryville, California
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I actually thought the crux was getting off the ground (unless you use the crack start of Surplus Cheaper Hands a few feet left, which I assume is off-route). Difficulty seemed to ease up after the second bolt. Then again I did find myself doing a pull up on my finger nails somewhere around the 3rd bolt, but that was more painful than cruxy.

The anchor is entirely rebolted now.
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Jul 23, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

The First Ascent of this route was by Norman Boles, George Watson and John Tuttle in 1986. I think I neglected to send in the FA info to Donny Reid and so he or somebody named it "Age of Industry" as a fair summation of the development of numerous routes in this area at the time. We probably had some dorky name for it now lost to posterity.

A little sporty in the last run out to the anchors, but loose flakes long gone should make this reasonable. Thanks to those who replaced bolts on it.

Opening moves are a bit of a reach problem but you can alternately start in the Surplus Cheaper Hands dihedral if you just want some fun 5.10 climbing.

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