|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Norman Boles, George Watson and John Tuttle, 1986|
|Submitted By:||Daniel S on May 16, 2007|
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|Comments on Age of Industry||Add Comment|
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By Kaleem Khwaja
From: Emeryville, California
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I actually thought the crux was getting off the ground (unless you use the crack start of Surplus Cheaper Hands a few feet left, which I assume is off-route). Difficulty seemed to ease up after the second bolt. Then again I did find myself doing a pull up on my finger nails somewhere around the 3rd bolt, but that was more painful than cruxy.
The anchor is entirely rebolted now.
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Jul 23, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
The First Ascent of this route was by Norman Boles, George Watson and John Tuttle in 1986. I think I neglected to send in the FA info to Donny Reid and so he or somebody named it "Age of Industry" as a fair summation of the development of numerous routes in this area at the time. We probably had some dorky name for it now lost to posterity.
A little sporty in the last run out to the anchors, but loose flakes long gone should make this reasonable. Thanks to those who replaced bolts on it.
Opening moves are a bit of a reach problem but you can alternately start in the Surplus Cheaper Hands dihedral if you just want some fun 5.10 climbing.