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The Glory Hole
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Grain S 
Blood Raid S 
Bloody Mushroom Stamp S 
Devil Doll S 
In the Flat Field S 
Lactic Acid Bath S 
Massacre S 
Mojo Hand S 
Skull Fuck S 
Skull Fuck Direct Finish S 
Yowsah S 

Against the Grain 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Bentley Brackett 2001
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: ChrisHau on Sep 15, 2015

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Description 

Against the Grain climbs more like a boulder than a route, and consists of a short sequence of power pulling. Don't underestimate it, however, as it requires a healthy amount of core strength and pure burl ability.

Scramble up detached blocks to clip the first bolt (shared with Mojo Hand). Casual moves along big holds ease you into two bolts of easy roof flake climbing. A long move onto a sloped edge marks the beginning of the difficulty.

Shouldery gastons and crossovers along a small seam in the horizontal roof lead to a one-handed jug (which inexplicably seeps). The next crux section involves several huge reaches between surprisingly good holds. However, the feet are distressingly bad and/or absent.

Another powerful stab into a sloping seam, and then a core-intensive lurch for a sloper finally give way to some easier crimpy face and anchors.

Location 

The very leftmost route in the Hole. Shares the first draw with Mojo Hand, but continues straight into the roof along a flake.

Protection 

Good bolts and permadraws


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By ChrisHau
Sep 15, 2015

Thanks to NRAC for giving the entire Hole a facelift sometime in 2013. In addition to improving safety on the well-trafficked routes, they've breathed new life into routes like this one, which would otherwise sit unclimbed and forgotten, marked only by deteriorating tat.

If you love the New, donate; the next set of bolts they install might end up on your dream project.

newriverclimbing.net/donate/
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
Sep 16, 2015

Awesome Chris. Thanks for the NRAC mention. I also put a link on the NRG home page. If you climb with any regularity at the New, or if you just like giving a little back because you're grateful for fixed hardware and the hard work of development and maintenance, please consider donating.