REI Community
The Millstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment S 
Angle of Repose S 
Blockbuster T 
Bush Doctor T 
Calling All Karmas S 
Cat Juggling S 
Earthling S 
Eraserhead T 
Hollow Excuses T 
Intelligient Life Form S 
Lead Balloon S 
Maize, The S 
Miller Time S 
Milling About T 
Millstone Slab T 
Moon Walk S 
Odd Get Even, The S 
Pencilneck T 
Personal Jesus S 
Private Hell S 
Stick Figure Stays Home S 
Stone Ground S 
Strong Arm With the Lads S 
Surfing on a Rocket T 
Tie Die S 
Unknown Crack T 
Yuppie Love S 

Against the Establishment 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Smoot & Kevin Florendo, 1990
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Tryhard Scoville on Jul 16, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Another solid Millstone route. Thin edgy climbing that requires some patience, creativity, and technical movement. The crux is around the third or fourth bolt. A good climb that stays interesting start to finish.


Bolted route just uphill from left facing flake system (Hollow Excuses 5.9R).


5 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.

Comments on Against the Establishment Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Steiger
Aug 23, 2011

Although enjoyable, this is a somewhat contrived line between easier climbing on the right (Hollow Excuses) and easier climbing on the left (a left-diagonalling system of flakes). There are at least two different ways to climb it: if you follow the natural weaknesses, you end up clipping the third bolt by stretching far to your right, then stepping back left and continuing to the fourth bolt. Done this way, the route is probably 10d or 11a. If you try to stay directly in the bolt line, tenuous underclings/sidepulls make clipping the third bolt sketchy, and gives a few more hard moves before reaching the fourth bolt. Done this way, it'’s probably 11b, maybe even a tad harder. The Ruckmans’' guide rates the route 11b, commenting that "“[m]any climbers encounter an impasse in the vicinity of the third bolt"” -- close enough.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About