Against the Establishment
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Another solid Millstone route. Thin edgy climbing that requires some patience, creativity, and technical movement. The crux is around the third or fourth bolt. A good climb that stays interesting start to finish.
Bolted route just uphill from left facing flake system (Hollow Excuses 5.9R).
5 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.
By John Steiger
Aug 23, 2011
Although enjoyable, this is a somewhat contrived line between easier climbing on the right (Hollow Excuses) and easier climbing on the left (a left-diagonalling system of flakes). There are at least two different ways to climb it: if you follow the natural weaknesses, you end up clipping the third bolt by stretching far to your right, then stepping back left and continuing to the fourth bolt. Done this way, the route is probably 10d or 11a. If you try to stay directly in the bolt line, tenuous underclings/sidepulls make clipping the third bolt sketchy, and gives a few more hard moves before reaching the fourth bolt. Done this way, it's probably 11b, maybe even a tad harder. The Ruckmans' guide rates the route 11b, commenting that "[m]any climbers encounter an impasse in the vicinity of the third bolt" -- close enough.