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Rannoch Wall
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Agag's Groove T 

Agag's Groove 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 345'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Hamish Hamilton, Alex Anderson & Alex Small - 1936
Page Views: 933
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 21, 2011

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P1: Climb the crack above the block leading into the groove. Follow this up to a belay on the huge block at the base of a wide crack in the groove.
P2: Continue up the easy ramp above to a large belay at a block or on a ledge with some old pins just above.
P3: Continue up the same line to a sloping shelf leading out left onto the exposed nose. Move up the steep, cracked groove above on superb incut holds. Move left to a belay at a block.
P4: Move left along the ledge and follow some fine, thin cracks on large holds to a rather abrupt finish.

Overall, an excellent line with some good airy exposure. From the top you can continue to hike/scramble up "Direct Route" on Crowberry Ridge and work your way to the summit.


From the base in easy gully, locate a large rectangular detached block at the extreme right edge of the face of Rannoch Wall.

Descend by hiking/scrambling up Direct Route on Crowberry Ridge and then going left (east) to link up with Curved Ridge. Scramble down Curved Ridge to Easy Gully.

You can also scramble right and down Crowberry Ridge and back to the base. Shorter, but it's a little trickier.


standard trad rack

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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Oct 22, 2012

Great route in an improbable position.

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