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Aftermathematics 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: bolted in 12/2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 92
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 29, 2016

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Aftermathematics. Photo: Nicholas Zepeda.

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Description 

Another potential warm-up option, this line is almost entirely jugs, but a difficult clip and “beached-whale” mantel sequence at the very top detract from the experience. The rock is relatively solid, though dirty, hosting several aviary toilets.

Begin up large, flat jugs, slightly right of the bolt line, to reach a big sloping ledge. Follow diagonaling, incut cracks and flakes over the first roof, rocking up with difficulty to reach a scrunchy rest below the final roof. There is a hidden bolt above the lip out left, which is difficult to locate and clip without a pre-hung draw (or two). Most people will want to follow the rounded, diagonaling crack system that begins above the right end of the alcove and traverses left, culminating in a thrutchy mantel onto the hanging slab.

Location 

It is the second line from the right, or the right-most line on the big overhangs.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A stick clip is mandatory. Ideally, stick clip the 2nd bolt. It helps to have a long draw hanging from the last bolt.


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