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7. F.Y. (Forever Young) Wall
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After The Gold Rush  T,S 
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Everybody Knows This Is Nowhere T,S 
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After The Gold Rush  

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Drew Spaulding, Chris Bonaiuto, May 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Apr 18, 2013

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Pitch 1 - Climb the wide looking hand crack to a 2 bolt, 5.11b crux. You can also continue out left up the crack as an easier variation at 5.8. Scamper up moderate ledges to the 2-bolt anchor above.("Heart Of Gold Ledge"-this is the best anchor to rappel to from Routes 1,2,3,4 and 5! This is the best rappel to the ground...)

Pitch 2 - Climb straight up through the 2 roofs above(5.11a) and continue up the beautiful bolted line on high quality, glacially polished granite.(5.10+) ...A few pieces of gear in the beginning and at the end of this pitch brings you up to the 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch3-Follow bolts up under the roof(5.10d) and plug some gear before pulling the lip(5.10c). A thin finger size seam leads up to the large ledge at the top 2-bolt anchor.


Each pitch requires gear placement. An assortment of nuts and a single rack of cams should suffice.... 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch allow for a direct rappel descent. To climb to the summit would require another pitch at 5.5 for about 150-200 more feet....

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Rock Climbing Photo: After The Gold Rush is the 2nd route from the left...
After The Gold Rush is the 2nd route from the left...

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