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Routes in The Ghetto
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[Redacted] V4 6B |
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After Hours V7 7A+ |
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Anacostia V4 6B |
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Dr. Slutpants V7 7A+ |
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Hueco Simulator V4 6B |
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Hunting Humans V8 7B |
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Inner Space V6 7A |
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Lip Traverse V2 5+ |
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S + M V4 6B |
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Spina Bifida V5 6C |
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Tabula Rasa V9 7C |
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Trolling for Skank V10 7C+ |
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Underdog V5 6C |
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Violent Opposition V5 6C |
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| Type: | Boulder, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | Jim Surette |
| Page Views: | 2,734 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Aug 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
For all intents and purposes, this is the central line punching straight out the middle of the lower right sector of the Upper Ghetto. Coated in chalk and eye-catchingly direct, this is a Ghetto classic extraordinaire.
Walk about 30 feet along the base of the slot from the staging area until you're eye level with the twin bathtub/huecos. Now sit. A hard tug on miserable pebble/crimps and a powerful throw gain the huecos. Head straight up an incipient crack for another five feet until you're at a sloping horizontal.
The original problem, and the V7 way, takes the leftmost set of holds off the horizontal, hitting an incut razor for the left hand and pawing a scoop for the right before some trickery helps you power up into a sloping gaston. Surf right to a good horn or hueco, and punch for the lip.
You can either step off or continue along the lip for a linkage pump.
An easier advent, sometimes mistakenly referred to as Ghetto Boys, climbs straight up and slightly right from the horizontal via a friendlier sequence (V6) and is the path of least resistance straight out the cave. It's probably best to think of this as the easy finish to After Hours.
Walk about 30 feet along the base of the slot from the staging area until you're eye level with the twin bathtub/huecos. Now sit. A hard tug on miserable pebble/crimps and a powerful throw gain the huecos. Head straight up an incipient crack for another five feet until you're at a sloping horizontal.
The original problem, and the V7 way, takes the leftmost set of holds off the horizontal, hitting an incut razor for the left hand and pawing a scoop for the right before some trickery helps you power up into a sloping gaston. Surf right to a good horn or hueco, and punch for the lip.
You can either step off or continue along the lip for a linkage pump.
An easier advent, sometimes mistakenly referred to as Ghetto Boys, climbs straight up and slightly right from the horizontal via a friendlier sequence (V6) and is the path of least resistance straight out the cave. It's probably best to think of this as the easy finish to After Hours.
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