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African Gypsy
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African Gypsy S 

African Gypsy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 855
Submitted By: Emerson Takahashi on Nov 9, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Starting up P3

Description 

Great route climbing the north face of the formation. Usually shaded which makes for pleasant climbing conditions throughout the day.

It was bolted on lead, so bolts are at great stances, but it also means that it's a little run out at times.
Perfect to do at sunset, and the FA was done under the light of a full moon!

P1: The bolt spacing at the beginning of the route makes this the crux. Pull on some thin crimps 3 or 4 feet above the second bolt to gain better holds and the next bolt. I almost missed the last bolt, its hard to spot, but just keep climbing until the good ledge and bolted anchors. 5.7+ 30m

P2: This is a pretty pleasant romp up the slab. Very mellow and more spaced out bolts. I think I remember a long(but easy) runout towards the end. 5.6 25m

P3: Enjoy the views, this is another easy pitch. Mantle onto several ledges as you make your way up the final hundred feet of the dome. To reach the true summit, scramble up 20 more feet of lichen covered slab and a little ledge(It is very slick, careful on your way back to the anchors). There's a nice pothole at the top that offers a nice place to sit if its not filled with water. 5.7 25m

Descent: Making 3 rappels down the route is probably the best way down. Tie your ends for the final rap so you don't accidentally go tumbling down the steep approach.

Location 

North face of the formation, immediately to the left of the big dihedral. Park at the base and scramble your way up the slab to the base of pitch 1. I suggest belaying from about 10-15 feet below the first bolt for the most comfortable belay spot.

Protection 

I think we used 8 draws total, plus gear for bolted anchors


Photos of African Gypsy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Look down from halfway up P3
Look down from halfway up P3
Rock Climbing Photo: A look at African Gypsy from the approach
A look at African Gypsy from the approach

Comments on African Gypsy Add Comment
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By Ian Quigley
May 30, 2016

A nice diversion, lovely views. Crux is probably moving fast first bolt of P1; I don't think there are more than 5 bolts for any pitch (but bring more in case I counted wrong). Beware pulling little bits down when you pull rope after rappelling!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 31, 2016

Fun mellow way to get to the top of the formation. The views are great and the climbing is consistently fun.
Bolt count: 4 on P1, 5 on P2 and P3.
As mentioned, the first pitch (and last rap) is longer but the upper 2 pitches are short and can be combined. Not sure there's a move of 5.7 on this route even when factoring in the friable nature of the holds.

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