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Africa T 
Arachnid T 
Caver's Route T 
Curving Crack T 
Dog Days T 
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Squeezebox T,TR 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Seibert, Rich Gottlieb, 1974
Season: Most
Page Views: 2,230
Submitted By: Tony B on May 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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BETA PHOTO: Mitch cleaning Africa


Though Dog Days and Africa lack the beautiful aesthetic of their perfect corner of a neighbor, appearing to be rough and chunky, they are both good lines. Both of these are surprisingly good climbs on good stone. More surprising still is that either one is harder and more pumpy than the large roof cap on Arachnid.

To climb Africa, start on the crack near the continental outline, where good jamming takes you up a small distance past the 'map' to a good stance at a pod in the crack. From this stance, further jamming and some face holds on vertical rock take you past increasingly physical climbing on less positive jams (5.9, crux) to a second pod inteh crack below an overhang of dark rock, perhaps 60 feet up. This is where the route Madagascar joins Africa. Jam and jug over the roof on less difficult climbing (5.8?) and continue in a crack and corner system to the top of the climb on a larger ledge. Some clever groveling up and left can be made to lead you to the top of the rock as for Dog Days and Arachnid.


Just left of the obvious capped dihedral of Arachnid lie two more cracks, the left being Dog Days and the right being Africa. The name 'Africa' was inspired by a dark patch of rock near the base that resembles a continental outline of its namesake.


A few med-large stoppers and cams from thin hands to wide hands. A few longer slings are good bofore the pods & overhang, and when coming out of the pod up top, into the crack and corner system.

Photos of Africa Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Africa 5.9
BETA PHOTO: Africa 5.9
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux
At the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: If you go to the top instead of stopping at the an...
If you go to the top instead of stopping at the an...
Rock Climbing Photo: .
Rock Climbing Photo: Africa

Comments on Africa Add Comment
Show which comments
By esha
Nov 5, 2010

Can anyone point out to me where this supposed shape of Africa is on or near this route? I must have a poor imagination.....
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

At the base, to the left. You can't see it in these photos.
By Rob R.
From: Chicago, IL
Jun 28, 2011

While you can't see them from the ground, there are rap rings at the second alcove.
By Kevin Wagner
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 14, 2013

Save a bd number 4 for the top of the 2nd pitch or risk a ledge fall if you blow the dirty topout.
By Sean H
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 29, 2016

Continued on past the first set of anchors to the slung tree. Wouldn't recommend it. The fun meat of the climb goes up to the chains, after that you get mostly easier climbing on mediocre quality rock. Additionally, the top was guarded by a decent sized spider/web when I climbed it, which had to be dispatched with a whack from a #3 Camalot before continuing.

Nice line up to the chains though.
By Grant Gibson
From: Cincinnati, OH
Nov 7, 2016

Climbed it for the first time in 2009 and then again this past weekend. Great line. I forgot about the awesomeness of Tower Rock and felt good to visit. Just wish some folks would go a little lighter on the chalk (or use none). Takes away from the guessing game. Bottom line, can't go wrong with old classics like Africa.

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