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Africa Flake T 
Drunken Sporto's S 
Head Case S 
Improbable T 
Just to Watch Him Die T 
Karl's Variation T 
Karls Crack T 
Mr. Bigglesworth T 
On Safari T 
School Stinks T,TR 
Spring Break T 
Summer Session T,TR 
Total Recall S 
UNR Crack T 

Africa Flake 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,036
Submitted By: Rick D on Dec 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Old Custer testing the Cape of Good Hope on Africa...


WARNING: This is the old rating before the Africa Flake broke off... Alot harder now and height dependent. Also can be run out and dirty, might want to take .5"-1" cam for extra protection if needed.

That being said, can be a really fun climb. The crux now is getting to the first bolt without the flake. If you are under 5'11", you might want to start on Karls crack, put a few pieces in, and traverse right over to the second bolt. Make some good, slight overhanging moves. Get to good ledge and traverse right. Make hard unprotected moves up crack (Bring Trad). Finish on chains.


Just to the right of Karls crack.



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By Thrutchtastic
From: Sparks, NV
Jun 5, 2009

The mantle to the first bolt is heady and difficult, but easy to aid through. I'd recommend doing this purely as a sport route. It's spicy, and you'll deck from 40' if you blow the third clip, but--boy--is it ever fun! The climbing lets up once you gain the flake. I'm 5'8", and the reach to the flake isn't that bad. Granted, I haven't climbed it since last season--when did the flake break?
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 17, 2011

I'd definitely recommend a single rack from fingers up to 1" on this. There's a cruxy section right before the third bolt and a fall would be a grounder without additional protection. If you're into that, cool, but fair warning.

This is a quality climb with some very testy moves for the given grade.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jun 12, 2011

I'm 6 foot and have no problem reaching the flake. My wife is 5'6'' and that is the crux for her. Half the time she makes it, the other half . . . no dice.
By Ancent
From: Reno, NV
Nov 13, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is no longer a 10a, and a lot of the climbing is rather bold for the grade. The first crux is 10-15ft up with the first bolt above your head, and then a mix of tenuous trad/bolt-protected climbing follows. A lot of fun and worth it. Make sure you bring a rack of smaller pieces (< #1) as this would be rather run out with no gear.

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