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Affenhitze S 
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Affenhitze 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: M. Hoffmann, M. Huber
Page Views: 17
Submitted By: Ol Toby on Jul 31, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Affenhitze follows the right line of chalked holds...

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Quality enduro pumpfest through the middle of the steep wall. Highly recommended!

Affenhitze begins on the slabby start and vertical tufa shared with Cross Eyed. A long reach from the top of the tufa towards the two big "eyes" starts the difficulties for both routes. Here, Affenhitze heads right while Cross Eyed moves left.

Especially if linking the entry slab into the steep wall, make sure to clip the bolt between and just below the two "eyes" with a long sling or rope drag will absolutely hose you on the steep section above.

A cool boulder problem out of the "eyes" leads to the right and around the arete. A few slabby moves then give way to a sequence with likely the hardest single moves before a full-recovery rest in the pod below the steepness.

From the pod, hero moves trend straight up the cave on positive but ever-worsening holds. Clipping the anchors also requires finding the right holds to clip from to avoid taking the whip.

Location 

Begins on the slab directly left of the pillar housing the easier routes at the wall.

Protection 

Titanium.


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