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Hard Traverse, The 


Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
Page Views: 5,905
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 9, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Stardust Boulder V5.

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  • Description 

    Right after a huge, long boulder along the left trail at the base of the Second Flatiron is the Stardust Boulder. Just to the right of the trail is the boulder. Aerogel starts low and traverses left to a sloping rail. Pull straight up to a crimp then the top. Unlike some other problems around Boulder, the landing on this one is great.


    Crash pad.

    Photos of Aerogel Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tim F. swinging wildly on Aerogel.
    Tim F. swinging wildly on Aerogel.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jay making the big reach.
    Jay making the big reach.

    Comments on Aerogel Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 13, 2012
    By Michael Komarnitsky
    Founding Father
    From: Seattle, WA
    Aug 9, 2001

    Aerogel is a silicon-based solid with a porous, sponge-like structure in which 99 percent of the volume is empty space. It is also 39 times more insulating that the best fiberglass insulation, but with a density 10_3 times less than glass. It was used on the Mars Pathfinder, and on an upcoming mission it will be used to 'catch' comet dust.

    I did my senior aerospace materials research paper on the stuff.
    By jonah
    Mar 10, 2003

    Did a fun variation the other day. When you hit the big sloper (where you would normally go to the crimp), just cut your feet and campus to the top of the arete (don't puss out and grab the side of the rail instead). I dunno if anyone has done this variation before - probably - but if not, I christen it "Campussy." Not really much harder than the regular way if you're good at campus moves, but good if you're bored...
    By Darin Thompson
    Sep 9, 2004

    Can anyone comment on exactly what holds are "on" for this problem to go at V5? I'm specifically interested in what to do once you hit the right hand crimp after the matched hold. Are you "allowed" to go for the arete with your left hand, out and left (somewhat above the matching hold), or do you go straight up above, and almost to the right of, the right hand crimp?....
    By Chip Phillips
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Sep 9, 2004
    rating: V5 6C

    FWIW, this is how I felt about the TWO ways most people do Aerogel ...

    From the big sloper, right hand to the crimp, everything is on to the top ... V4/5.

    Right hand to the crimp, go left hand all the way to the top horn ... V6.

    The Hard Traverse is fun too ... solid V5 rounding the corner after pimping the sloper.

    That's my 2 cents ... flame away
    By micah stocker
    Oct 28, 2004

    I am [curious], I don't really boulder much, and I almost flashed this problem today. It only took a few tries to send. However, the way I sent it involved a large dead point up to the [arete] to the left of the crimp. Avoiding the crimp all together. Does this count as a send. It felt pretty hard, but I don't know much about bouldering.
    By Chip Phillips
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Oct 29, 2004
    rating: V5 6C

    IMHO, the way you are describing is easier than the 2 variations I described above Micah ... in the neighborhood of V3 or 4 if I remember correctly.

    That said, the way you described is certainly the least contrived way to the top.
    By Andrew Vojslavek
    Apr 8, 2007
    rating: V4 6B

    I guess it could be V5, if you are not tall you cannot keep the heel hook when going to the sloper rail, right? Then once again if you are not tall the move to the right crimper maybe hard.... It is a V5 as face out.... Not V5 in Hueco....
    By Jason Kaplan
    From: Glenwood ,Co
    May 14, 2007

    What is the problem that sit starts and traverses up the arete?
    By Jarred S.
    From: Wilkes-Barre, PA
    May 18, 2010
    rating: V1+ 5

    Good warm up after a long day of work. Suggestion is to keep an open mind with beta and just let it flow.
    By Outdrgear
    From: Purcellville, VA
    Mar 15, 2011

    Climbed this as a warm up not knowing what it was. Then got on here and looked it up. I just want to know who thinks this is V5? I would say it is barely V1. No hard moves at all on this. Just making me question Mountain Project's grading?!?!
    By NickC
    Jul 3, 2011

    This seems like a pretty solid V5. The reach both to the sloper and to the top are pretty difficult for a warm-up. If you think it is a warm-up V1, you should probably consider that just getting to the top of this boulder is not the problem. Obviously there is a large easy arete, or you could just walk up the back. The confusion may be from the fact that there was a lot of chalk all the way up the arete.
    By John Harkins
    From: Colorado
    Sep 9, 2011

    Definitely hard to envision V5 moves on this block. But they are there, just not right in your face. I like to start on the jug far right and work around left then dyno to the top.
    By Chris Plesko
    From: Westminster, CO
    Nov 18, 2011
    rating: V5 6C

    Yes, it's contrived, since you can go from the sloping rail straight to the top. It's V5 for me going from the rail to the crimp before the top.

    If you think it's V1, you're not doing the problem.
    By Cesar Valencia
    Mar 13, 2012
    rating: V5 6C

    Me and my buddies were on this the other day, and this was our opinion on the route:

    1.) If you just follow the arete all the way up to the horn (not coming down into any of the the other holds JUST the arete), it's a V1.

    2.) If you do the problem correctly going to the big sloper then straight up to the horn (not using the crimp out right), it's a V3.

    3.) If you do the problem correctly going to the big sloper then out with the right hand to the crimp then move with the left hand to the horn, it's a V5.

    Any of the 3 variations are fun in my opinion, so just do all of them.

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