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Advanced Rockcraft 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Fowler, Copeland, Horan, Rolofson, 1986
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt, 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 194
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Feb 27, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Mark Rolofson leading Advanced Rock Climb. Photo: ...

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  • Description 

    Start directly below Sunrider to the right of a large flake augured into the ground. Climb out left in the large, left-facing dihedral. The awkward part-smear, part-stem crux comes at about 15 feet, just above the bolt. Two more pins leads into a largely unprotected run for the tree. This climb would be a tricky on-sight, and what we used to do was run up Gravity's Angel (on the left) and get the clips set above the bolt. I've always felt really scrunched up in the crux. There is not much in the corner for hands, not much on the face for hands either, and the position is cramped. Nonetheless, this is a crafty sequence to solve, probably classic. The original hideous anchor (a pin and a wire) can be avoided if you are willing to run up to the tree, and this is highly recommended.

    While I probably will not get any support for this idea, slapping in a bolt 15 feet below the tree would turn Advanced Rockcraft into the classic that it deserves to be.


    Half a dozen draws, a heavy sack, and a rope.

    Comments on Advanced Rockcraft Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Feb 28, 2002

    Since it is all fixed, why not upgrade the whole route?
    By Stefan Griebel
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    May 27, 2010

    The single bolt at the crux has been replaced with a 5-piece Rawl 3/8" bolt. Thanks to ACE for the necessary hardware and tools. The pin below, bashie (!?!) above, and pin higher are all still in place.

    A yellow Alien can back up the higher pin, and a pretty darn good #5 BD Micro Stopper (Swedge) protects the upper 5.10 runout.
    By Brent Apgar
    From: Out of the Loop
    Aug 6, 2010

    Thanks for making the effort to upgrade the hardware.
    By Rob DeZonia
    Sep 6, 2011

    I love this route. It is what Eldo is all about. I led this when it had that tiny, nail-sized bolt. I had worked it on rope solo, and when I finally got a partner up there, I looked like a bad ass. The truth is, this route handed me my ass for a while. It felt like Street Car Named Desire in Joshua Tree to me. I'm psyched the bolt's been replaced. The corner's crux is ruthless. It is very hard for 12b. The dangerous part is pulling out of the upper 5.10 corner.
    By Mike Alkaitis
    May 23, 2013

    The fixed wire is rusty, and if this broke, you would be bummed. No other options.
    By Spud
    Aug 17, 2015

    That rusty, fixed wire popped on me yesterday! I was top roping this from the Gravity's Angel anchor, slipped and fell, and the wire itself broke off the nut! This thing is hard!
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Aug 10, 2016

    I lead this route on that bashie, many years ago, and remember thinking, don't fall on that thing.

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