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Grandpa Peabody Boulder
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Advanced Rockcraft Arete 
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Advanced Rockcraft Arete 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c Hueco: V0 Font: 4 X

   
Type:  Boulder, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c Hueco: V0 Font: 4 X [details]
FA: 
Season: It can bake during midday.
Page Views: 4,488
Submitted By: Ben Parsons on Sep 29, 2014

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Variation

Description 

For many, this is the perfect highball. Located on the iconic Grandpa Peabody Boulder, the physical crux is, for most, pulling onto Grandpa from a smaller boulder. The mental crux for many is the last pull over on to the top. After getting established on Grandpa, traverse right and then shoot up via immaculate crimps. Incredible!

Location 

On the backside of the Granda Peabody boulder, to the right of Ambrosia. Scramble up a small boulder, then step from this to the Grandpa. Once established, traverse slightly right and then head up the slab. Follow the holds, take your time, and be careful to not get off-route. This is also the easiest down climb on the boulder.

Protection 

If you're not solid at soloing 5.9, have a friend lead up to and set up a top rope. Most of the time it's done as a solo.


Photos of Advanced Rockcraft Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning warm-up on Grandpa.
Morning warm-up on Grandpa.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun
Fun

Comments on Advanced Rockcraft Arete Add Comment
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By Mike Brady
From: Van Diesel, OR
Jan 4, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  V0 4 X

While it should be obvious it should be noted that this serves as the downclimb as well.

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