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This climb has tricky but solid gear. Like most LDE climbs, it was established ground-up; one bolt was drilled from a hook placement during this ascent.
Later, we had a trusted friend check out Advanced Geir before posting it up. Following his recommendation, two more bolts were added to back off the commitment level a bit. Even with its moderate grade and the addition of these bolts, it's still a climb for a seasoned trad climber.
Look for a bolt about 10 off the ground in the middle of the face just left of where the hand line protecting the approach ends.
1) Stem the start of the climb to reach the first bolt. Continue straight up the face making tricky gear placements. Clip a second bolt & pull through the crux. For extra credit find the good gear nearby the third bolt. Move up to the comfortable ledge. (5.9, 90').
2) Move left to a crack with a small bulge. Pull the bulge (5.9) and move a few feet right to a second crack that forms a ramp. Follow the ramp up and step right to the summit. (5.9, 70')
Descent: Rappel the route.
See overview topo.
Standard rack, doubles <1" required.
Geir Hundal on the FA of Advanced Geir
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This might be good to do as one pitch, as the second pitch is short and eases off towards the top.
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 11, 2010
As of 4/11/10 the descent from this route has changed. Simply rappel the route.