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East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Witchie T 

Adrenaline Surfer 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Nate Postma & Dan Meyer, 1989
Page Views: 355
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Nov 3, 2014

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Braden following. Warm November day!

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Contrived sport route with fun movement on good edges. Climb the 1st pitch of Witchie then exit left, half-way up the 2nd pitch, to belay anchor under roof. Climb left around the roof into shallow corner. Continue stemming and face climbing while reaching out right for the bolts on the arête. Wander out on to the arête occasionally. Place a .4 camalot after the 8th bolt. All the hardware is in excellent condition.

Location 

This is the bolt line on the arête immediately left of Witchie's 2nd pitch. Rap down Witchie or straight down to another set of nice Metolius Rap Hanger anchors (not sure what route this is?). The latter choice will involve scrambling back up to your packs.

Protection 

11 bolts
single finger size cam
Metolius rap hanger anchors


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By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Nov 3, 2014

Originally given 12a, but I thought Everlasting was much harder than this. Would have been a better climb if the crack was utilized more for gear and the bolts weren't out of the way, trying to force an arête climb.
By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Nov 21, 2015

Spoke with Nate Postma a while back about his route and apparently it was not documented correctly. This is actually a 3 pitch climb! Guidebooks only describe the 3rd pitch. Which makes sense, since there is a nice looking line leading up to the 3rd with bomber anchors. The 2nd pitch, I believe, has a large flake that looks and sounds sketch. But Postma says they couldn't get it come. I'll update this route once I climb the full line.

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