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ADK 9 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kath Lasky, Hans Florine '95
Page Views: 354
Submitted By: Schiffhauer on May 16, 2004

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Description 

This is the second route from the right. It's pretty straight forward climbing up cobbles and other pieces of rock. The crux is between the second and third bolt, after which the angle decreases and the holds get bigger. It seemed a little cruxy just before the anchors, as your pulling on little pieces of rock that don't look like they're going to be there much longer.....but then what on this wall does. The Edward's guide states that the route "kept getting harder, then got easier, so who knows how you'll find it," but it's a fun short route none the less.

Protection 

It seems the ground has risen, as the start is in a streambed, so you can actually clip the first bolt just standing there....if you want to use it. The second bolt is only about 3 feet higher. Also, the second bolt is a spinner. The bolt seems solid, but I think the sandstone has worn underneath the hanger making it spin. Two open shuts await you at the top.


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By j moore
From: Santa Maria
Oct 27, 2012

definitley, probably, surely, harder than 10b. id give it a 10 c/d a big ledge broke where you used to hang out while clipping 3rd bolt.
By Sean P. Sullivan
From: Clovis, Ca
Apr 21, 2015

Harder than 10b. Pushing 10+ now. Looks like a lot of holds have popped out. Clipping bolt 3 was the crux for me.
By Phil Requist
Oct 24, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route has been cleaned up and rebolted. 5.10b is again an accurate rating, I think.

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