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* Adirondack Ice & Mixed

Select Area...
A: Northeast 
B: Climbs near Lake Placid 
C: Northwest 
D: Keene Valley and Chapel Pond 
E: Interior High Peaks 
F: The Central Region 
G: The Southern Region 

* Adirondack Ice & Mixed Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.9375, -74.3775 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Mar 9, 2009
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Chapel Pond, a megacenter for climbing in New York...

Description 

This section is dedicated to all those demented fanatics that call whacking sharp, pointy things into frozen icicles a worthy endeavor.

Ice climbing in the Adirondacks is as solitary an experience as its rock climbing counterpart. The routes range in character from solitarty drip lines to chandaliered waterfall ice. From Poke-O's long, heady smearfests, to the fat plastic ice of Chapel Pond Gully, the Adirondacks house some of the East's finest ice escapes. If you come with an open mind, a sense of adventure, and a penchant for adverse conditions, you won't be disappointed.

The ice climbing descriptions have been organized into subareas to match the chapters in the local guidebook Blue Lines 2 as follows:

A: Northeast
B: Climbs near Lake Placid
C: Northwest
D: Keene Valley and Chapel Pond
E: Interior High Peaks
F: The Central Region
G: The Southern Region

(Yes, this is a little confusing in that the organization differs from that used to organize the rock climbing routes. This organization favors the ice climbing guidebook one is likely to be using.)

Getting There 

The Dacks are big, REAL BIG, and can be accessed from various points in New England and from the flatlands below us.

If you are coming from the south, Interstate 87 (The New York Thruway) will deposit you in the Park.

Traveling from the east, there are several ways, all of which offer similar travel time, that get you there. The Charlotte, VT Ferry, The Burlington, VT Ferry, and the Grand Isle, VT Ferry all drop you off along the eastern precipice of the Adirondacks, although in the middle of winter, the Ferries typically do NOT run. Once across Lake Champlain, find your way to Route 73, the central corridor through the Park proper.

From the west, travelers can take Route 3, 28, or 8 depending on the destination you wish to visit.

At this point you should refer to the detailed descriptions for each area, as many of the areas are sprinkled along, or right off Route 73, or off Route 9 or 9N located just to the north and east.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.3 miles from here

212 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',32],['3 Stars',85],['2 Stars',62],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in * Adirondack Ice & Mixed

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for * Adirondack Ice & Mixed:
Chouinard's Gully    WI3     Ice, 2 pitches, 300'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond
Positive Thinking   WI5-     Ice   A: Northeast : Poke-O-Moonshine
Dogleg Right   WI3+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond
Pitchoff Right   WI3-4     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Cascade Pass
Tendonitis   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : North Face of Pitchoff
Power Play   WI4+     Ice, 3 pitches, 220'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond
White Line Fever   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond
Arm & Hammer   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : North Face of Pitchoff
Pitchoff Quarry   WI4-5     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Cascade Pass
Ice Slot   WI4-     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond Canyon
Multiplication Gully   WI3+     Ice, 3 pitches, 225'   B: Climbs near Lake Placid : Wilmington Notch - High Fal...
Central Pillar of Pitchoff   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : North Face of Pitchoff
Lions on the Beach   WI4-     Ice, 1 pitch, 80'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond Canyon
Hot Shot   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond Canyon
The Trap Dike   WI2     Ice, 2 pitches, 2000'   E: Interior High Peaks : Avalanche Lake/Pass
The Cascade   WI2+     Ice, 3 pitches, 1200'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Cascade Pass
Positive Reinforcement   WI3-4     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond Canyon
Crystal Ice Tower   WI4     Ice   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond
Roaring Brook Falls   WI3+     Ice, 3 pitches, 350'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Giant Mountain
Haggis and Cold Toast   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in * Adirondack Ice & Mixed

Featured Route For * Adirondack Ice & Mixed
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Cheese and Crackers (WI5) in fat condit...

Cheese and Crackers WI5  New York : Adirondacks : ... : King Wall
Cheese and Crackers is a classic, Dacks testpiece. It faces east, so it's good for cold, sunny, early mornings.The route forms in two pieces that, when thick, connect to form a continuous, steep pitch. When thinner, there will be a short rock section, with decent protection, that is required to connect the two sections.You can see the route when driving from Malfunction Junction towards Chapel Pond. You can assess the conditions from here....[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Comments on * Adirondack Ice & Mixed Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Harrison
Jan 9, 2010
A lot of Adk Ice climbing is anything but solitary, at least on weekends and holidays. Chouinard's Gully, despite having three variations to choose from, is generally queued up from about 9am until dark. Same with Roaring Brook Falls, Multiplication Gully, and most of the fast-access ice along Cascade Pass. A couple of these become hazardous as parties ascend and rappel around each other, mostly because ice chunks channel down the climbing path.
Of course, there is a lot of ice far enough off the beaten track to spend a lifetime whackin'. If the classics are crowded, take a look at some of the farther-flung flows. Just bring snowshoes for the approach!
By Gunkiemike
Jan 18, 2017
Blue Lines 2 is out! In the intro Don says that this will be his last book, so I'm not sure who'll be collecting new route info from here on; Jim, maybe you?
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jan 19, 2017
"Blue Lines 2" can be purchased from The Mountaineer in Keene Valley.

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