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Adios Larry 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Perry Teeters, Manuel Rangle, 4/91
Page Views: 1,055
Submitted By: arjunmh on Jun 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Looking up at Adios Larry

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Description 

Start on the big ledge that you take to get to Hidden Splendor. Face to ramp with 2 bolt anchor. Bolts are widely spaced, having just a few small-med cams and stoppers will help the runout. Key hold to clear the roof-like top move is now gone (sorry) and protecting this last move is wise.

Location 

East facing cliff in Glitter Box. #42 in Marty's book, #25 on foldout map.

Protection 

Solid bolts, having some trad to supplement will help.


Photos of Adios Larry Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At belay bolts, friends on Hidden Splendor to left...
At belay bolts, friends on Hidden Splendor to left...

Comments on Adios Larry Add Comment
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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

the "ugly betty" alien is the gold (actually brown-bronze colored) alien - the size between red and orange. heinous color, good cam. :)
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 15, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Excellent climb, just gets steeper and steeper. Probably best to do as one long enduro pitch.
By Nate Young
From: Phoenix
Nov 25, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

The first pitch is a mid 5.9 with a tad bit of runout with a few of the bolts (only because it's slabby and you'd most likely hit a couple ledges on the fall). The second pitch was really fun and had some technical sections. I got pretty pumped about halfway through the second pitch, so pace yourself. I also pulled off a couple good sized chunks of rock up at the top couple bolts, so be safe and wear a helmet if you belay!
By RyanJames
Jan 6, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This is a great climb that would really benefit from a change of location of the anchors. A MUCH better spot for them would be about five to ten feet lower beneath the lip of cliff. Then you wouldn't have to worry about rapping off of the rats nest of sun-bleached tat. Other than that, this climb was great! No gear needed.
By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Feb 10, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Nice route, but there is about a 20ft. run-out over 10-ish climbing. That puts the fall at 40 plus rope stretch maybe 50 ft. Placing you in range of plenty of objective hazards. having said that, it was a great climb at or near the grade for a very long distance. Great as an endurance pitch. Not a good lead for the new to 10's climber. There is likely pro in the run-out, but your gonna be pumped by the time you get there, eh?
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Feb 10, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

As with most routes in Lower Devils, it's wise to bring a light rack to ease the runouts.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Dec 5, 2015

Most excellent climb indeed! Single enduro pitch is definitely the way to go. The tat on the top anchors needs clearing (I didn't have a knife yesterday) and we chose to walk over to the anchors for "Sublime Line" rather than use the rotten sling/chord. I agree that moving the anchors, adding new rap anchors down off the top, or adding lengths of chain to the existing ones is a must do for this fantastic route. I'll make a note if I manage to do it.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
May 1, 2017

Did this again yesterday and noticed a nice new bolt on the bulge (crux) about half way through the "2nd pitch" (quotes as I like to do it as a long single pitch). What's up with the new bolt? Must say that it's a better bolt and better placed than the one right below it, so was kind of nice to have, but it still raises the concern about placing additional bolts on routes. I know that Greg Opland noted the same on some other routes.

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