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Addis Ababa 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, September 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,163
Submitted By: James Garrett on Oct 3, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Finishing up the first pitch, getting ready for th...

Description 

Like its namesake city, this route exemplifies that even in the midst of dirt, poverty, and chaos (choss), one still finds many positive traits and wonderful people. With that said, this route, like the city of Addis Ababa, is not a place for everyone, (especially the choss averse!).

A fun beginner adventure route, but don't forget to wear your helmet. Maybe you'll look like a dork, but your Mom will forever be grateful.

Pitch #1: Climb up the buttress past several bolts to a steep overhanging bulge. Tread lightly though the brief impasse to loose, but easy terrain to a two-bolt belay under a roof. 5.7, 25m.

Pitch #2: Pass the first of two bulges protected by a few more bolts and follow the arête to another two-bolt belay. 5.7, 25m.

Rappel the route.


Location 

From parked car to rope up spot, 5 minutes walk. The right skyline crest of rock of Bumblebee Wall that emerges from the gully separating Bumblebee Wall and Psychobabble Wall. Scramble up to the base of the ridge and start climbing at a glue in-bolt.

Rappel the route.

Protection 

QDs (about 7 per pitch or more if you want to link the pitches).
A few small cam placements are possible.

Belays are bolted. Linking the two pitches may result in significant rope drag.


Photos of Addis Ababa Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up the first pitch.
Finishing up the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Maria Pangan on Addis Ababa, 2nd pitch
Maria Pangan on Addis Ababa, 2nd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: The sunny Bumblebee South facing Wall. The climbin...
The sunny Bumblebee South facing Wall. The climbin...

Comments on Addis Ababa Add Comment
Show which comments
By ddriver
From: SLC
Oct 21, 2013

Nice setting but unfortunately discontinuous.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 9, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Feels kind of soft compared to the rest of the stuff on the wall, but fits in nicely with climbs at Reservoir Ridge. Not particularly sustained, but worth doing once.
By BrokenChairs
From: Seattle
Mar 11, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Easier than many of the 5.6 routes in the area. Lots of loose rock, I wouldn't recommend this route there are way better ones in the area. A 70M will almost get you to the ground in one rap, leaves a 15' easy down climb. Tie knots in the end of the rope and wear a helmet!
By David Wieder
From: Salt Lake, UT
Mar 19, 2016

A couple 5.7 moves on solid rock with a bunch of 5 easy and 4th class choss. Not worth the bolts.

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