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Addiction to Friction S 
Boo Yah S 

Addiction to Friction 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Greg Huston
Page Views: 459
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Mar 9, 2014

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Addiction to Friction- 12d.

Description 

Addiction to Friction follows an obvious and aesthetic line along a right angling seam. This route is a bit of an anomaly in that it follows a feature and involves technical movement.

Start low and left of the first bolt on a pair of left-facing sidepulls. Big moves and good holds lead to a big horizontal crack. Some shouldery moves and a tough clip gain the slopey, left-facing ramp. Fight through the insecure barndoor moves, small feet and a hard toss to a good hold over a small roof. The last 10 feet of ATF is the steepest section with strange, angular holds and core intensive moves to a generous anchor jug in the middle of the roof. Too bad the rock quality deteriorates past this point...

Since the ground rises with the wall, this route requires an attentive belay. It misses four star status in my book because it leave a little to be desired- ending half way out the cave.

Location 

Look for a very obvious left facing ramp feature.

Protection 

Bolts. The last four bolts have fixed draws. BEWARE!!! The bolts on this climb look extremely rusty.


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