REI Community
search
Advanced
Mount Adams
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adams Glacier 
Mazama Glacier Headwall 
Mount Adams circumnavigation T 
North Ridge 
Pinnacle Glacier Headwall 
South Spur T 

Adams Glacier 

AI2-3

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 4700', Grade III
Original: AI2-3 [details]
FA: 
Season: Late Spring / Early Summer
Page Views: 1,742
Submitted By: gcap on Jul 17, 2012  with updates from Kyle Tarry

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Approximate route taken, Adams Glacier, July 2016.

Description 

The Adams Glacier is on Mt. Adams's N /NW face. The route generally starts at the base of the glacier on the right side, and ascends fairly straight up, sticking to the right 1/3 of the glacier for the majority of the climb. (Of course, the exact route may vary by year, season, and conditions.) The upper icefall can be passed on either side, Nelson and Potterfield show the route going around the left, my party went on the right. Above this icefall is a false-summit plateau. You then continue to the actual summit.

The route is primarily moderate snow with some steep snow, and a bit of alpine ice. In 2016 we found 2 sections requiring ice screws and a belay, the latter of which was climbing into and back out of a large crevasse. The majority of the route can be simul-soloed, and is protectable with pickets and a running belay if desired.

You can descend via the N. Ridge or a snow field on the west side of the N. Ridge. Note the N. Ridge consist of very loose volcanic rock. Be careful to not release rock slides on fellow skiers or climbers.

Location 

Use Forest Service roads 23, 21 and 2329 to reach the Killen Creek Trail (#113).

Follow the Killen Creek Trail (#113) to the PCT, where you'll continue straight onto the High Camp Trail (#10). Once up in the High Camp area, head SE towards the foot of the N. Ridge. Ample camping can be found between 7,000 and 7,600 ft.

The route is impossible to miss and you have a good view of your line for the entire approach.

A volcano permit is required to climb Mount Adams. More info here:
fs.usda.gov/recmain/giffordpin...

Camp at a glacial lake at 7650' for easy access.
There is also flat and dry camping (on dirt) at the established 'high camp' area at 7000'

Protection 

Protection consists of pickets and ice screws.


Photos of Adams Glacier Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adams Glacier on July 12, 2012.
Adams Glacier on July 12, 2012.

Comments on Adams Glacier Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About