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Adam Kopley Memorial Route 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Fletcher
Page Views: 858
Submitted By: peterkd5bwt on Oct 8, 2016

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JH nearing the top of the Adam Kopley Memorial Rou...

Description 

This route is dedicated to Adam Kopley, who died in a climbing accident on April 6, 2012 during when Mark was developing this route. This route starts out fairly easy at a short vertical crack on the left side of the slab. There is some lichen here, but all of the holds are clean. Work your way up to a very short side pull crack. Although you could put in a cam here, it is not needed since a bolt is right above. From here the climb becomes a friction-fest, but is well protected until a right-tending discontinuous crack. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt. A Purple Alien cam was used midway up this discontinuous crack during the first ascent. Above the crack, go up the slab to the left on finger pocket cracks past three more bolts. Near the top, stay on the left side of the slab, but do not use the left edge of the slab or the crack in the center of the slab.

First ascent: Mark Fletcher (roped solo), June 3, 2012.

Location 

Left-most climb on the Super Slab Area. Descend by rappelling the route with a single 60m rope.

See approach map. Approach these areas by going down the descent trail to reach “Rather Be S8boarding” and other climbs. The bottom of the cliff with “Rather Be S8boarding”, continue down and move right along a wall. When you reach the wall on the right, go down through a slight opening in the green briar and mountain laurel to a talus slope. Continue down the talus slope to a group of slabs on the left. The natural cave at the bottom of the slabs marks the start of “Arêtetrifying”. If you want to get to “Zig Zag” work your way through bushes around the bottom of the slabs and then up to a ledge where “Zig Zag” starts.

From the “Arêtetrifying” area to get to the Super Slab area, continue down a very steep dirt slope. Then turn right and traverse to pick up a faint trail which goes down steep dirt slopes for about 125-150’ to the base of a wall. Traverse right (north) along the base of the wall to the end. Continue through a brushy area to the base of Super Slab. This trail is very slippery, thus hiking poles may be advised until the leaves and loose material clean up. Please do not create additional trails to this area as only one is needed. I have hiked in by other ways, but they all require steep down climbing or rappels, so use the trail mentioned. Please do the best to maintain the build-up of dirt and pine needles at the base of Super Slab.

Protection 

Seven bolts plus Purple Alien cam or equivalent, optional 1" cam. Two Metolius rappel bolts on a narrow horizontal ledge at the top of the climb.


Photos of Adam Kopley Memorial Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just after the crux on the Adam Kopley Memorial Ro...
Just after the crux on the Adam Kopley Memorial Ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: topo for Super Slab Area (Adam Kopley Memorial Rou...
BETA PHOTO: topo for Super Slab Area (Adam Kopley Memorial Rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Descent marker for Rather be Sk8teboarding and Sup...
BETA PHOTO: Descent marker for Rather be Sk8teboarding and Sup...
Rock Climbing Photo: Map to Buzzard Rock New Climbing Areas (Aretefying...
BETA PHOTO: Map to Buzzard Rock New Climbing Areas (Aretefying...

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