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The Dead Snag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ad Lib T 
Alor 1 T 
Call Me Slim T 
Dead Snag Direttissima T 
Die Another Day T 
East Dihedrals T 
Force of Nature T 
Funk T 
Gypsy Girl S 
Jig's Up T 
North Dihedrals T 
North Ridge T 
R&B T 
Rock! T 
Social Engineering T 
Steorts' Ridge T 
Tiger's Den T 

Ad Lib 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Libby Ellis, 1986
Page Views: 346
Submitted By: John Steiger on Apr 7, 2015

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Description 

This is the obvious right-leaning thin crack just left of a low angle right-leaning, left-facing dihedral on the north face of Dead Snag. A mix of jamming and face moves gets progressively more difficult toward the top. Stuart gave the route one out of three stars when he and Libby cleaned and climbed it in 1986, but lichen and vegetation invaded the crack until it was “restored” in March 2015. Get it before it grows back! The north face of Dead Snag rarely gets sun, so it’'s comfortable all day during the dog days of summer.

Location 

Right (north) of North Dihedrals, around the corner on the smoothish north face of Dead Snag. Approach by either walking downhill along the wall from the North Dihedrals to Dead Snag's toe and turning left to thrash up through the bushes and scree, or follow the approach to Social Engineering and drop downhill maybe 25 feet. Rap or lower from the original pins backed up by a new bolt.

Protection 

Set of wireds and cams to a red Camalot (no. 1). Microcams are useful.


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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The dirt is already coming back! As JS said, get on it before it fills back up with grime, it's a worthy route which starts easy and gets progressively harder and thinner.